How to protect a Restoration Hardware Dining Table, Coffee Table or Desk. Learn about all the options and what we ultimately went with and love 4 years later!
I haven’t written about our Restoration Hardware Dining Table since shortly after we received it because I allowed it to paralyze me. You can read more about our experience here.
The stress, disappointment, frustration and overwhelm was just too much. Instead, our family of 5 sat at an antique table, intended to be my kitchen desk. It was tight. Our legs didn’t even fit underneath it. We just “closed off” the sunroom and pretended that it, along with the table didn’t exist.
When we purchased a Restoration Hardware dining table with a natural finish we envisioned it weathering over time. A rustic farmhouse table that would only become prettier over time.
The reality was the first time we wiped the table down after dinner with a damp cloth, we removed the finish. You can imagine the horror! We quickly realized the “natural” finish is a beautiful powder that is not practical. That soft, dusty look is unachievable in a maintainable form.
Underneath the powder the reclaimed wood table merely looked like wood purchased from your local hardware store.
We poured over the options time and time again, and realized that the perfect Restoration Hardware table just doesn’t exist. Fortunately, there are several options to protect your Restoration Hardware Dining table. However, whatever product you use, will alter the finish.
We have purchased several pieces of Restoration Hardware’s natural finish including a dresser, chest of drawers and two dining room tables. We’ve had a lot of experience using the furniture over the last 4 years and most importantly, protecting it.
We made a lot of mistakes on our first Restoration Hardware dining table, but fortunately, you don’t have to! Today I’m sharing both how to protect and repair.
Read about How to Clean Linen Furniture from Restoration Hardware (or anywhere)!
Table of Contents
Natural Finish
Restoration Hardware’s website notes on the description for the reclaimed wood table care recommendations.
“For dining tables, use of tablecloths, placemats and coasters is recommended to prevent staining. “Clear furniture wax can be applied to protect the finish from minor spills. Use coasters or placemats to help prevent marks or stains” and to “Wipe the table clean with a soft, dry cloth after each use.”
Their site also says “Care: Wipe using a damp cloth with mild soap and water, followed by a dry cloth. Wipe spills up immediately with a dry cloth.” However, that conflicts with their detailed care instructions. I, along with many of you found that a damp cloth takes the finish right off.
Products Available to Protect Your Restoration Hardware Dining Table
- Wax
- Modern Masters Dead Flat
- Pure Tung Oil
- Polyurethane
The Pros and Cons of Each Finish
Wax
Pros:
- Recommended by Restoration Hardware
- Very little alteration to the table
- Minimal sheen
- Easy to apply
Cons:
- Minimal protection
- Minimally water resistant
- Removes with solvent
- Requires reapplication
- Heat leaves rings
Best Use: Limited wear pieces like the Restoration Hardware Coffee Table, Side Table or Dressers
Modern Masters Dead Flat
Pros:
- Minimal sheen
- Very little alteration to the table
- Easy to apply
Cons:
- Minimal protection (markers, etc don’t wipe off)
- Minimally water resistant
Best Use: Limited wear pieces like the Restoration Hardware Coffee Table, Side Table or Dressers
You can purchase Modern Masters Dead Flat Varnish here.
Paula graciously sent a photo of her table sealed with this finish. We used it on our kitchen island you can learn more about it here and the protection it provides. 11/11/16
Pure Tung Oil
Pros:
- Waterproof
- Marker, glue, etc wipe clean
- No need to reapply
Cons:
- Alters color
- Minimal alternation to sheen with proper application (use of steel wool)
- Slightly more difficult to apply
Best Use: High wear pieces like the Restoration Hardware Dining Table
You can purchase Pure Tung Oil here.
See below for more details and a step by step tutorial.
Polyurethane
Pros:
- Easy to apply
Cons:
- Even the matte finish has a sheen
- Not waterproof
- Doesn’t stand up to abrasion
I wish I was writing this with the perfect solution for you today, but it’s a decision each individual has to weigh. Instead, I’m sharing what we chose to do and how we’re moving forward.
How to Protect Your Restoration Hardware Dining Table
- If you recall, we immediately panicked. My first piece of advice is DON’T PANIC! Nothing good will come of it!
- If you plan to do anything with it, determine if you need to wipe the finish off first (if you’ve damaged it) or just go over the powder finish. The powder finish easily wipes off with a damp cloth. Below are pictures depicting the wood without the finish Restoration Hardware applies. Reader Lei said she used “coffee grounds and rubbed it into the spot where it had lightened”which made the omission of powder negligible. Keep reading for more details and a step by step tutorial.
- Use TRUE Tung Oil. There’s a difference – Tung Oil Finish is not 100% Tung Oil. I’m listing the pros and cons based on my understanding and experience:
- It’s not supposed to alter the color of the wood. However, the first coat must be used with a combination of paint thinner, which alters the finish. It released red tones in the wood we finished. A week later I found it less noticeable.
- It has a matte finish. It can have a slightly more matte appearance with A LOT of steel wool and willpower.
- It protects the wood from stains. It fills the pores, which seals the wood & allows it to easily wipe clean.
- It’s durable. After using it for a few years it has withstood oils, crayon, etc have wiped without staining.
You can see the sheen from the tung oil in the picture below:
* The Tung Oil Finish I used on our harvest table provides a decent amount of protection, but not as wipeable as what we needed for everyday use. You can read more about the first Tung Oil Finish we used on this table here.
What Stain Color Best Matches Restoration Hardware’s Natural Finish?
If you have to stain your wood or are building your own farmhouse table, Minwax Driftwood came the closest to the natural finish of the Restoration Hardware Dining Table. It seeps into the pores of the wood, so the quicker you wipe it off to remove it, the less color that will be applied, however, it gets pretty dark in the grooves.
Here are some examples on various boards. I applied it and Chris followed behind wiping it off. These images are before the tung oil was applied.
Redefine expectations.
In the end, it’s not perfect, but it’s functional and looks nice. If you have experienced a similar situation, know that you will make peace with it, eventually! I have learned so much from this table. One of the most important lessons is that sometimes we need to redefine our expectations.
It’s just a table.
Through all of your comments and emails, I learned that I am not alone. More importantly, I remembered that it’s just a table. Despite wasted time, money and energy, it’s still just a table. It’s a farmhouse table where I can share breakfast, lunch and dinner with my family. It’s a table I can (and have) shared laughs, wine and tears. It’s a table where I can invite friends and family to get together and share the story of those laughs, wine and tears.
It’s the reclaimed wood table that brought us together to help each other. If you have an experience with your table and can offer additional help to others, please leave a comment below. If this post can save someone even a few of the hours and frustration we put into our table, it’s worth it.
How to Protect a Restoration Hardware Table with Tung Oil
In July of 2015, we purchased a new Restoration Hardware dining table. We wanted to start fresh and fortunately were able to recoop most of the expense we had invested in our previous farmhouse table.
We purchased this table with intention. This time we knew the powder finish would wipe off, so we took steps to protect it prior to use.
Supplies:
Pure Tung Oil
Flour Sack Towels
- Apply Tung Oil with on with white flour sack towels.
- Have a second person follow behind to remove any excess.
- Use steel wool to dull the finish.
- Repeat.
The more muscle you put into using the steel wool the more natural your finish will be.
This method can be used with any farmhouse table or reclaimed wood table. Below are a couple of snapshots of the final result of our reclaimed wood table protected with tung oil.
Update April 2019
Nearly 5 years later I still receive a lot of questions about our Restoration Hardware dining table. The tung oil has held up incredibly well. To date, we have not reapplied and don’t see a need to do so. The finish has continued to fade over time offering a softer, more natural aesthetic. All glue, marker and even candle wax have been removed effortlessly!
I hope this post has helped you make a decision you’re comfortable with to protect your farmhouse table. Please use comments below (rather than emailing) so that your questions and comments help others, too!
More Furnishings Inspiration
- Pottery Barn Sofas
- Sectional Sofas
- Ikea Ektorp sofas
- Rattan Bed
- How to Mix Throw Pillow Covers (and Where to Buy Them)
- Blackout Roller Shades
How to Protect a Restoration Hardware Table with Tung Oil
Equipment
- Flour Sack Towels
- Steel Wool
Ingredients
- Pure Tung Oil
Instructions
- Apply Tung Oil with white flour sack towels to the tables.
- Have a second person follow behind to remove any excess.
- Use steel wool to dull the finish.
- Repeat
Thanks for all of the thoughtful commentary. We are getting a used salvaged wood trestle table (natural finish) that has lived in a family with kids for years. I think it will need some love and I’m planning to use so much of what you shared here.
Also…where did you get the pendant light/chandelier in the picture with the cow? We love that light!
Thanks, Brandon! You can shop our home here. Enjoy!
Hi Julie! Do you use placemats or tablecloths on your Tung Oil protected table? We just got a driftwood dry table and your page was the first to come up. We have young kids and are terrified we made a big mistake. It’s currently under a tablecloth which hides the beauty of it. I’m just worried about water rings, coffee spills, tomato sauce, etc.
We don’t! To be honest, it takes a beating between glitter, glue, cookie decorating, etc!
Where did you get the painting of the cow? I love it!
Hi Brandy! You can get the cow painting here! Enjoy!
Hi Julie!
Thank you for your wonderfully helpful post. We purchased the Russian Reclaimed Wood Dining Table in Grey Oak. With this particular colored finish will mixing the Tung Oil with paint thinner ruin the color? I saw a few posts from people who bought the same table but it wasn’t clear if they used paint thinner. Any input would be great! Thank you!
Thank you!
Which table is this ? I’m looking at st james table and I’m torn. I will die after 2k the finish is taken off
Hi Julie, thanks so much for this informative post! I’m a little unclear, do you recommend diluting the 100% tung oil or not for the first coat?
Hi Julie, love your website. Can you tell me where your slipcovered chairs are from that are in the photograph with the salvaged table? Have been searching for a while.
Restoration Hardware. Enjoy!
Love your table. Did you sand it first.
Thank you! No, we did not.
I finally broke down and applied the tung oil to my table yesterday! Thank you, Julie for creating this post! It did turn out a little darker but is still as equally beautiful! My table does sit in a sunny space. Do you know if this will affect color/curing? I’m happy to share photos with anyone who is scared to finish their table. It really was a pretty simple process!
Ours is in a very sunny spot and hasn’t effected the color. It will lighten over time with wear.
Does anyone know what the powdery finish is that they put on RH salvaged wood tables?
Has anyone had this issue with the Salvaged Wood Extension Table in Coffee?? Did you use the Tung oil and how did it turn out? Thank you!
Hi All!
We have the 1900s Boulangerie Dining Table from RH (in Natural Salvaged finish) — it is a table made out of reclaimed wood, so each beam is a bit different from the others, and it has lots of nooks and crannies. We applied a single layer of Pure Tung Oil, and I have a few comments and questions.
1. It changes the color drastically, so rather than a very light/grey finish it is now a deeper/red finish, but it is still beautiful.
2. Given the different types of reclaimed wood used, each beam is going to react a bit differently to the Tung Oil. The table will not be one single color, but rather appear a variety of colors.
3. We have only applied a single layer of the Tung Oil so far, but the “nooks and crannies” of the table are not filled it. So, food can get stuck in them and wiping down a smooth surface is not really an option. Has anyone had experience with this?
4. The reclaimed wood was so dry, the oil was absorbed very quickly and appears matte without even using the steel wool.
Hi Julie!
Do you mind clarifying application with JUST Tung oil versus paint thinner + Tung oil. What is the difference? I have the 1900s Boulangerie table. Thanks
Any tips for removing a water ring from the table?!
Hi Julie! I’m about to protect my table. I’ve read through the comments and seem to be a little confused on what to do. I am going to go the Tung Oil route- did you use paint thinner? Or did you just use the Tung Oil? Thanks!!
Just wanted to thank you so much for this blog post! We just bought a RH table in Natural Salvage and thanks to you knew how to protect it right away. We used only pure Tung oil and steel wool (0 and 000). And it seems to be working great. The table is significantly darker (though the color is still lovely and natural looking), and it sounds like it will lighten over the next week or two. We’re wondering if we really need to do more than 2 coats. We went pretty heavy on the first one as the table just soaked it up and we didn’t thin the tung oil out of fear of color changes (we did heat it up in the micro before application though which seemed to work great). Even after sitting for a couple days and steel wool, the table still looks a bit oily/coated. How do you know when you’ve done enough coats?
Totally up to you, you’re probably fine, I was just so nervous and desperate to protect. The more you use steel wool, the more it will tone the color.
I’m ready to order the salvaged wood table, but I’m scared! How many coats of the Tung Oil did you apply? Did you use paint thinner with the second table? So, you apply the Tung Oil, wipe excess off, and then do you use the steel wool right away or do you wait a few days for it to seal? Thank you!
Hi,
I hope you are well. I am ordering the suggested woodriver pure tung oil for a R.H. table that is 120″L x 42″W x 30″H. I live in the Caribbean where this product is not available. Do you have an idea of how many quarts I should order? I would rather have too much than not enough. I look forward to hearing from you soon. Thank you!
We only needed 1. Soak up some sun for me!
We were in the same dilemma and thanks to your blog felt confident when buying the RH table despite the annoyance that the company doesn’t protect the table for us.
We just used the 100% tung oil and paint thinner and it was really easy. I was nervous to start but this is ridiculously easy. We did 3/1 tung oil/thinner.
Our table is not the natural finish, rather the darker wood (espresso color) and it looks fantastic.
We don’t mind the satin look that resulted so we haven’t used the wool on it at this point. Thanks to all and especially Julie for walking us through this process. We will love this table and the protection lets us all breathe a little easier!! thank you
Thank you, Lynne! So glad you felt it worked well for you, too! 4 years in and we haven’t had to do it again and still no stains!
I think like many that have left comments, we are looking for the best case “recipe” that has been discovered so far. Really appreciate Julie taking the time to experiment and post her results! Here’s what I’ve gathered from my reading of this excellent thread:
1) Receive your new RH Natural Finish Table, leave the powder finish intact
2) Use true Tung Oil, no thinner, and apply with a flour sack towel
3) Have someone follow your application with a towel to wipe off excess
4) After it’s dried (or not?) follow with super fine steel wool to knock down the finish (could use some clarification here … when do you do this?)
5) No need to coat it twice … coat again once this new finish wears off
Am I missing anything? Thanks!
That’s it! Definitely test underneath to ensure you’re comfortable with it first.
Hi! I’m late to the game! Just spent two hours reading comments! So confused! Is there any consensus on protecting the grey wash salvage wood!? xo thanks if anyone has some info for me!
I’m sorry, I don’t have experience with that finish.
I think one other person had this issue but it cannot hurt to put it twice. I got the table and put Pure Tung oil on it. I let it dry overnight and in the morning did steel wool. I repeated the process. I put a wet glass down and was horrified to see a dark ring. I finally figured out it was the dust and got a wet cloth and wiped all the dust off and the ring disappeared with it. It is now working great and I have tested everything from red wine coffee butter etc.
I could not be more happy. I have been searching for years for an extending Rawood table that I did not need table cloth, coasters etc. for and could survive children. Thank you so much Julie for cracking the code and sharing with us
Hi, Julie. Thanks for you help. When one applies the tung oil and wipes it off is it OK for the cloth to be a little brown? I’m worried I’m wiping off the magic dust. Thanks.
Yes.
Hi, Julie, THanks for your help earlier with the table. I’m now in the midst of my own drama. I ordered a sample of the natural salvaged wood and did the tung oil thing just for my own eyes. Worked great. So I got the table. As the delivery man was leaving he leaned over the table and touched it with his sweaty hands while at the same time dropping one huge drop of sweat and a bunch of little ones!!! I told him I didn’t want to sign because I was worried he’d ruined it! He was like “Lady, it’s just sweat!”. But sure enough it left a permanent mark. (Who makes a table this delicate!! More crazy who buys it? LOL!) I freaked and called RH who said they’ll exchange it. I told them I was worried to have the table in my house because I was afraid if it got ruined so easily we’d do more damage. He said don’t worry, we’re exchanging it. So I decided to test the tung oil on the extension part. As I was doing it the towel was getting all brown like the dust was coming off on the towel. I’m not sure as I haven’t done the steel wool but did you experience your towel getting dark? I’m afraid I’m wiping off the magic powder and that it won’t look as good. I’m just wondering if that was your experience…Thanks and sorry for the bother again. I have to laugh though at my sweat story!!
That’s so frustrating. That’s normal. The table will definitely change, but it will be usable. You can see our table in a variety of posts like this one on Christmas arrangements for reference.
Hi – we have the RH salvaged natural farm house table and just applied 50/50 Tung oil and paint thinner and it is SO dark. I am afraid we totally ruined the table. Any recommendations for how to remove and start over? Or how to lighten it? Should we not have used so much thinner? We thought we read in earlier comments it was 50/50 mix.
Steel wool
Update on the GREY Reclaimed Oak table…
I applied 2 coats of the recommended 100% Tung Oil using the flour sack towels to the top of the table, a section at a time with wiping off the excess. I used 1 coat on the base. I used the steel wool between the coats lightly on this table, as I mentioned before it did leave some black marks on the sample wood taking off some of the finish on this particular table. I decided not to use it after the second coat and allowed the oil to dry overnight to see what it would look like on its own. The tung oil left a mild sheen to the grey oak only noticeable when the natural light hit it, but it did start to lighten by the next day and I’m going to see how it looks after awhile before doing the 3rd coat. It did not change the color of the wood at all. I took several pictures for all of you but I can’t figure out how to attach them in this comment section. Let me know how to get them here or I can email them to Julie. Overall I like the results and I just hope it prevents water rings and stains. Good luck!
Hi all, I just wanted to share that I bought an RH Reclaimed Russian Oak 60″ round table in GREY and I am going to use the 100% tung oil to protect it. I decided to go with this after testing it on the sample square I bought prior, and it did not change the color at all. However, using the 0000 super fine steel wool does leave minor fine scratches if you don’t go with the grain and be somewhat gentle, as this table is not completely unfinished as compared to some RH tables. It does have some finish to it. I am using tung oil to hopefully prevent water rings and stains with every day use. I do not have children, but I am a little of a clean freak. I love love my table and like all of you, don’t know if I can ’embrace’ the stains! I will send pictures before and after.
Thank you so much! I have read everything and get it now. I’m so excited to order it. I know this is a stupid question but if you or anyone has the time to answer, after at least putting on a coat of the Tung oil, is it say from destruction? I ask because I do not know if I can keep our small children with their sweet (Dirty) fingers away! They like to touch anything new. We have a very small home and I don’t think I could keep them away from the table for the entire process of letting it dry; steel wood etc. at least I’d have to come up with a smart game plan. Lol. Thanks
Yes. The steel wool merely dulls it down and additional coats just add additional protection.
Thank you for this! I was planning on buying this exact table when I realize the potential dangers. I just want to make sure that once you protected it is OK to use it without coasters placemats, tablecloth etc. I like that look best and only want to buy the table if I know you can look that way. I’m scared because I am not hands-on either and my husband would be furious if we spend this kind of money on the table only to have it immediately ruined. I just want to make sure that I understand because you previously saying you had to make peace with the table. Is that because of the pizza mishap? But then you bought it again and protected it and now you’re thrilled with it? If that’s the case, I will buy it but if you are still thinking it is just the table I don’t want to buy it. Thanks again
We love it – it functions really well for us. You can actually see recent photos of it on my home page.
After you finished it with Tung Oil does it easily scratch and show all the scratches from setting plates on it and with kids using it everyday? Or do u not notice them?
Not at all, enjoy!
Hi Julie, I very carefully read all the blog posts on the restoration wood tables. I am so confused and don’t know what to do. We bought a Martens aged elm coffee table. It appears like it has an almost grayish stain on it….and feel rough to the touch… After reading all the posts I kind of settled on treating with the pure tung oil for maximal projection. I am not understanding the steel wool step. Wont that just completely strip off the “stain”? You talked about the powder coating that restoration puts on…is this the stain? Will the pure tung technique only work on a natural wood with no “stain” or color? TIA
Hi Julie, thanks so much for your post! I recently bought the RH salvaged wood trestle table and was super disappoitlnted like many others when it lightened up in a spot where my five year old drooled/cried. I told myself I could live with it, because the hassle of exchanging such a large piece didn’t seem worth it. Then I found your blog indicating it is a powder finish, and it gave me an idea. I used coffee grounds and rubbed it into the spot where it had lightened, and though I can still tell where that spot is because I have stared at it too long, I think most people wouldn’t know there ever was a problem spot unless I pointed it out. I plan to use the 100% tung oil as you have done, but I just wanted to share this small thing I did that has helped me in case it might help others who have lightened spots and don’t know what to do about it. Again, thanks so much for your post. I bought this raw wood table because with three kids, my last table with a finish always looked like it had crumbs all over it from where my kids had stabbed the table with a fork. I thought that with the raw finish, any stab marks would only blend in with the rustic look of the table. I never considered spills for some reason ?♀️. I’m thinking this will finally be the solution I’m looking for.
What a great idea!!! Thanks for sharing!
I’m thinking of having a piece of glass made for our RH table until the kids get old enough (10, 8, 5) to understand the significance of using a coaster at all times. A piece of glass may not be the prettiest, but at least I know it will protect the table and won’t change the color of the finish ?
Can you explain the 7/21/15 update a little more?
Also which Is your preferred method if you were gonna do it again.
What ended up being your favorite solution to keeping the powdery look of the restoration table?
We have one being delivered and would like to protect it immediately so we can enjoy the table.
Thank you!!
You can’t protect it and maintain the powder finish, sorry!
I am considering the Boulangerie table in salvaged natural. The store associate told me to apply Briwax on it to help protect the table. Has anyone else heard this or tried it? Thank you.
It works but offers limited protection and needs to be applied often. You’ll find heat and watermarks with it, though often repairable.
Thank you for responding. Are there any products that help to prevent scratches and nicks? I ordered a sample of the salvaged natural wood and I can scratch it with my fingernail. Or is this just a characteristic of this particular wood. Thanks again!!
It doesn’t with what I used to protect it.
Great! This blog has been so helpful. Thank you for writing about your table. I’m so happy I found it!!
Thanks, Ashley! Hope you have a great Thanksgiving!
What’s the final verdict? I have just bought the table for the dining room and dying to use it BUT not before I seal it without changing the current look hopefully – lot to read in 317 comments ? but
Is Tungs oil the best option ?
Happy to share pics before and after what ever I end up doing
Hi Julie, I’m sitting here devastated about my new RH reclaimed Russian oak in natural. This is the nicest table we had ever owned and now I feel like it is ruined. My children left something on the table in a few different places and it stained. I didn’t know what to do so I lightly went over the stained area with a piece of steel wool and it lightened up those areas badly. There’s now no stains but light spots. I feel so foolish! Do you think if I were to add the Tungoil all over the table those areas would darken up along with everything else or would they still stick out? I’m scared I’m going to ruin it even more. Please help!!
It may minimize it, but it will not eliminate it. You can always test underneath. I’m so sorry for your experience, I know how stressful it can be. You can also contact them and ask if they’ll send a new table.
Let us know what you do in the end, I guess in order to make it uniform you might have to steel wool the whole top
We have had our RH natural reclaimed wood trestle table for 5.5 years now. 4 kids, dog and cat. I never thought to put anything on to protect it and while we have spilled gallons and gallons of milk, water and food on it, the only thing that I can’t get out is the furniture oil a new cleaner sprayed it with last week! I talked to an employee at RH the other day and he said using a simple solution of blue dawn and water to wipe down the whole table will even out any water marks and that the creator actually ‘bleaches’ his table every so often to get it back to that lighter look. I have just started my research on this.
I know this is an old post, but it provides great info, so I thought I would give feedback on my experience as well. I have been mulling over this decision for about a year. I have three small children, and I wanted a table I could live with. After not using my RH Boulangerie table for many months, and eventually graduating to a see through plastic cover, I decided I had enough and took the plunge. The three things that could possibly happen were 1. Color change 2. Shiny appearance 3. Not be protected well enough. I decided having something natural with a raw appearance that I wouldn’t have to worry about peeling or re-applying would suit my desires best. I went with the 100% Tung Oil that you recommended. I did not thin it out, instead I used a warm wet rag to wipe the table down first (I read that opens up the pores), and then I used one light but solid coat to cover the whole top and legs. I wiped off any excess, which was very little, and I let it sit overnight. The color was the same, but a little bit deeper, like damp wood. The next day it was still a little damp, so I wiped it down with a dry cloth. Then I tested small areas with water and grease, and to my amazement, the water beaded and the grease wiped cleanly off. I wiped down the whole thing with a wet cloth and there was a little residue initially, but afterwards I could pretty much wipe and have no residue on a paper towel. Another day later it has almost fully dried, with only slight amount of dampness, but we were able to use it, and it wipes off clean with no residue left behind. The color seems to be lightening little by little also. My kids ate spaghetti on it, and that along with a glass of water spilled and everything wiped up perfect with no residue showing at all. So far, I do not need additional coats of the Tung oil, there is no shine that I can tell, so I didn’t need to use the steel wool, and it’s protecting like a champ! I am VERY pleased with the result. The wood color being a slightly deeper was a small price to pay to actually be able to use my beautiful table without worry. Thank you so much for starting a conversation on this. It is seriously ridiculous how much thought has to go into this…sigh…but you helped tremendously!
Has anyone used a matte lacquer or varnish on their natural salvaged wood. Thought it shouldn’t need to be resealed and shouldn’t attract dust and dirt like oil. Will be purchasing the Torano table and console. It’s crazy you can’t purchase it finished. I probably would have this done by a refinisher.
Hi Julie,
You have been amazing with all replies and shared information here.. thank you! Your entire site here is fantastic. You must be tired of all these RH questions. i’m sorry.. I recently purchased the RH reclaimed trestle table in natural. I definitely need to protect it as it’s certainly not kid friendly for use as is.
I plan to /use the pure Tung oil but seem to be missing what exactly I should do with the steel wool between applications? Actually scrape down the table with steel wool? should it dry several hours prior?
So apply oil with a cloth, wipe off excess oil, allow to dry, and scrape down (buff?) with steel wool after drying? 3 coats and that should be it? Am I missing something.. ?
I thank you kindly for your time!!
Yes, buff, it will reduce the color, any shine, etc.
Hello Julie. I too have the RH reclaimed wood dining table. Never use it! I’m terrified of spills and stains. (Lots of wine drinkers at our house) I’m considering topping my table with glass for protection. Any suggestions? Is this a good idea and do I need anything between the glass and table? I thank you in advance for your help.
Susie Ferguson
Read my recent post about Medern Masters – if you don’t use it frequently, it might be a good fit
I purchased the Salvaged Trestle Table in the natural finish. After much research we used the Woodcraft 100% Tung Oil. I used the steel wool between coats. Unfortunately, our table reacted completely differently than others have reported. The legs, bottom board, and underside turned a bit darker and look much like Julie’s table…a nice warm brown tone. The top boards on the other hand turned to a super dark brown in places and a black, almost burnt look in others. It literally looks like some of the boards were in a fire and were burnt in a former life. We may try sanding it down to get the black marks off but I’m not optimistic. Although I’m definitely upset about it, I do have to say that the first thing my 10 year old did was squirt ketchup on the table and, left untreated, I would have a splotchy ketchup stain instead. So at least it’s protected and didn’t stain?? If I had it to do over I would do the dead flat varnish instead.
Sadly I did my island in Modern Masters Dead Flat and it doesn’t protect at all – the store actually warned me that it’s a faux finish and not a protective coat.
Ok, that’s great to know I figured the steel wool would just make it more matte. I didnt realize it would help lighten the color also. I guess I was also worried that if i rubbed it too much that the “seal” wouldn’t be as good.
How many pieces of steel wool did you use after each of the three coats?
Thanks again <3
First off, thank you so much for the time you took to do this post and answer all the questions. I read it over for hours before deciding to go the tung oil route.
Just finished my first coat and went over it with one piece of the steel wool you recommended. It looks pretty matte but definitely darker/redder. How long did it take on your table for the color to fade to its original shade? I saw you mentioned a week or so? I’m hoping with increased drying time it will fade to the original color? We followed your process exactly, leaving the powder finish on. One last question, how many pieces of steel wool did you use after each coat? I just used one but wondering if I should go over it with more.
Thank you again!
Melissa
It continued to fade over time but we really worked it with the wool – the more you do that, the more it dulls and fades.
Ok, that’s great to know! I figured the wool just made it less shiny, I didn’t realize it would help lighten it as well! Looks like I have some more work to do 😉 How many wool pads did you use between each coat if you don’t mind me asking?
I just have to say this: Only Restoration Hardware would sell a $3000+ (albeit beautiful) dining table that can not handle food and water. Um… it’s a table. What the heck else would you use it for?? I also have a love/hate relationship with RH. Sometimes their products are just ridiculous. See: reconstructed chairs. #eyeroll
thanks Julie for the helpful info! Just ordered the Tung Oil and I will email you pictures when our table is complete– I hope my finish looks as beautiful as yours- granted mine is not the Restoration Hardware table – I am really trying to copy that finish. love your blog!
It will be even more beautiful because there’s a story behind it. Nothing is better than a handmade piece! Enjoy!
Is your table in direct sunlight and if so has that caused any further changing of color? I’m ready to treat mine with tung oil but now worried that the direct sun could be an issue. Only half of my table is in the sun otherwise I wouldn’t be concerned! Wasn’t sure if tung oil on wood acted similarly to sealed wood floors that tend to change, get orange-y over time.
It receives a lot of sun (we’ve had it 2 years now) and I don’t notice a change in color. You can see the table in more recent posts. Best wishes!
I have enjoyed reading your post- I don’t own the Restoration Hardware table but— my husband built an exact replica of the Pottery Barn Stafford Dining Table using Rough Sawn White Oak 2×6 boards 4 x 4 boards and 4 x 6 boards for legs and stretcher beams—this table is super solid and heavy several hundred pounds—he still has a few boards to add like breadboard etc.
(I have enclosed pictures below)
The man we bought the wood from said he uses Tung Oil — I am leary to use it as not knowing what kind to buy- I do not want this to be real dark—pretty much the exact same color as wood below or that of the Restoration Hardware table of yours.
I don’t want gloss I don’t was reds or yellows or oranges — I want exact color of your table
So my questions for you in your blog you said TRUE Tung Oil- Is this a Brand? I clicked the link and it brought me to the site of Wood River Woodcraft.com they showed various Tung Oils ( WoodRiver Pure Tung Oil – WATCO Tung Oil Waterlox Brands) None of the brands were TRUE?
I googled it and cannot find that brand? Would you be able to send me a picture of what you used and maybe more specifics
It looks too that some Tung Oils darken or are colored?– I don’t want that—
Also— you listed DEAD FLAT VARNISH — cant find that– is that a brand? I found on Amazon Modern Masters DP609-32 Dead Flat Varnish, Is that what was used in the one picture submitted 11-11-16 by Paula Any help would be super-
Thanks for sending the photos, it’s beautiful! He did an incredible job. Any reds, yellows or oranges are natural to the wood you chose and typically are brought out/enhanced buy products. This is the Tung oil we used, but there are others. Just make sure it says 100%. A lot have additives that will add color to your table.
We used Dead Flat for our kitchen island base.
I realize this thread started years ago. However, I have recently moved my st James dark dining table from never used area to every day kitchen use! Is there any solution for protecting this piece of furniture? Is tung oil a no go donto yhe chrijf effect? A clear no sheen varnish? I don’t know where to start? Any help is appreciated! Thank you thank you!
I bought the Salvaged Wood Trestle Table from RH in 2008. I’m not even sure what you mean by ‘powder finish’. I’m guessing it got wiped off during Thanksgiving ’08’s clean up. My table sat in our dining room and was used once, maybe twice a year until last year. That’s when we moved into our forever farmhouse. We eliminated a formal dining room so we now use this beautiful table daily. Fast forward a year…. daughter and 6 and 3 year old moved in 3 months ago and now the table has many marks, stains, etc. Also I haven’t heard anyone address the SPLINTERS. I wiped the table with a damp paper towel a few days ago and it was literally shredded because of the rough wood. And I still get brown residue on my towel when wiping up after a meal. I’m sure my almost 10 year old table is literally dying of thirst. I’m considering sanding the table lightly before applying the miracle cure of 100% tung oil (or the MM dead flat – what to do, what to do??). Has anyone ever sanded their table? If so, what did you use? I’m thinking just 0000 steel wool, but would love to hear about sanding experiences.
It may have been said already, but mix 1/3 Tung oil (100% tung from online, you cannot find in “regular” stores), 1/3 Turpentine, and 1/3 Boiled linseed oil. Pour it on heavy and rag off the excess. Work it in in the direction of the grain and let it sit. One coat will be helpful, two coats, is better, three coats is nice. 20 coats will give you a glossy look. Re-coat the table in this manner, every year. After 10 years you will have an old world looking table that people will drool over.
This 1/3 mix will reject oil, water… even wood glue. I use it on all of my woodworking benches.
(Note: Tung oil should never be used for outdoor furniture unless you re-coat monthly.)
Otherwise: get clear Briwax brand wax. Rub it on with a lint-free cloth. One, thin coat. Work it in in the direction of the grain. Do it again in a month. Then do it again when it looks like it needs it, but at least once a year.
Spills, drops, dents, rough-outs will only make the table better over time. Get enough spills, dents, etc and you will eventually find that it looks even more amazing, but always remember that this will take years.
If none of that is up your alley, then have a piece of thick, tempered glass cut to size and lay it on top of the table with clear, rubber feet arrayed to prevent wobble or droop. 100% protection.
Julie, after two years how has the tung oil worked on your table? Have you had to reapply since the first time?
No, it’s been amazing – wipes clean from markers, wine, etc
Hi! Thank you so much for maintaining this page and the comments. I have the RH Boulangerie table — salvaged natural finish. Within one week of owning it we set a glass of ice water on it and the condensation seeped down onto the table and left a giant (one foot wide) stain. I’ve never tried to fix it — just covered the whole table with a plastic table cloth and then a linen one. But now I’m tired of the tablecloth and want to see this table! Can I remove the stain, and if so, how do I do it? I plan to coat the entire table with 100% tung oil. Thank you in advance for you have any advice you can give!
Getting my table today and just ordered the 100% tung oil. You said you mixed paint thinner. What ratio did you use for that? Thank you SO much for this post!
Also there is something called Real Milk Paint and they say its pure tung oil, do you have any opinions on that one?
Thank you for being so helpful! Any idea how to remove the powder??
A wet cloth.
Hi Julie, I just purchased the Natural Salvaged Wood Trestle table at the RH outlet. I dont know if i am in love w the Natural color and was thinking of staining it so i did a google search and found your post. We didn’t think for a minute about stains! We have 3 kids so staining is not something we want to worry about. You mentioned a few times about the tung oil 100% but I see some people say it turns a different color. Did that happen to you? Any experience with the Modern Masters Dead Flat? Also if I decide to stain it, do you stain it first and then do a protective coat or does the stain serve double purpose? You mentioned in your post you used flour sack towels, but I don’t understand for what? Also, do you put the oil directly on the wood or the steel wool? Any additional tips you can give would be great, we really have no idea how to do this so step by step, a dummies edition, would be great!
It does change the color slightly, but gives it a more natural look than most options. We used Dead Flat on our kitchen island, but everyone agrees it offers very little protection. We did it because it was just the base.
The flour sak towels are to wipe the excess tung oil. If you do do it, use 100% pure tung oil. Most have minerals which change the color.
Thank you for your response! have you ever stained these tables to a different color? If so any tips for that?
No…I personally love the natural. If you do stain it, you’ll need to remove the powder coat first. I generally use MinWax and a protective top coat.
Hi Julie,
My husband and I are joining the legions considering the restoration hardware salvage wood table for our Forever Dining Table. Your blog post and all the comments have been really helpful. One thing I’m hoping you can confirm, and I hope this doesn’t cause any offense, is whether you received any kind of compensation (or free tables haha) from Restoration Hardware after you wrote your initial article about the table. You note in your “About” page that a post isn’t sponsored unless it’s explicitly stated in the post and I didn’t see that here, but wanted to confirm!
Thank you so much and I really appreciate all the research and effort you put in to solving this problem for the rest of us! I’m glad googling for the RH table led me to your blog. I’ll will continue checking in on other pages 🙂
No, but I wish! I spend far too much money with them. To be honest, I’m not sure RH would love this post, but after the expense and stress we endured, I felt compelled to write it. Have a beautiful Fourth, Mary!
Where are you’re rounded top chairs from?
They’re antique.
SOLVED with SOLVENT! A spin on what others mentioned – A dinner guest spilled liquid bone marrow on my RH harvest table, leaving a 4″ stain on the rough, gorgeous Russian oak wood. To not make a big deal about it I wiped and left it until the next day. It wouldn’t come out, no matter what I tried. Four weeks later I:
– scrubbed it (gently) with a towel wet with mineral spirits
– covered it with baking soda
– left the soda for an hour
– wiped off with a dry cloth
– repeated the above about six times
– final scrub with a damp towel (some colour came out on the towel at his point, read on)
– let dry, and use wet sponge to sop up the powder residue
– let dry again
And it came out! There is a slight, barely noticeable lightness to that area but this particular table’s colour variations are forgiving. The rough, unfinished texture is still present and the table looks great.
The table was a few years old so if there was any powdered finish on it, it’s been worn off over time – For me there was no risk, seeing the huge dark stain was far worse than ruining the finish.
Thank you all for giving me hope and leading me to this solution.
Do you know if the tops of these trestle tables unscrew from the base? I’m thinking of getting a round one but not sure if it will fit in my door. Thanks
They do not. They will fit through a standard front door though with the use of movers.
I came across this post after thinking I needed a different way to clean our table. We have the same table as yours (the first one I think). I was annoyed at first about stains (mostly oil) but told myself it’s a farm table that’s supposed to show the years of abuse, I mean love. That being said, a few months after we got the table we had an accidental drinking discovery. A beer was spilled which was wiped up with a wet sponge and dish soap and the next day the table looked brand new, if not better. Five years laters that’s how we clean the table. We don’t do the beer cleanse (as we call it) every day or even every week, but embrace the worn farmhouse look in between. I do vacuum the crevices that get crumbs inside. These days we intentionally take an unloved beer and dump it into a bucket with a little warm water and dish soap. Down the road I might consider the tung oil (which, after scrolling through the 300+ comments I think is the most common)…but only after a beer cleanse!!
We had planned to do the same, but ours was a powder finish and underneath it looked like wood purchased from Lowe’s that my husband had slapped together to make a $100 table. I’m all for allowing pieces to age! I hope you enjoy your table for years to come!
Hey! We bought the St James round dining table, its veneer. What would you recommend to protect it from spills?
No, veneer is a manufactured form of wood that is already protected, just don’t allow spills to sit.
Thank you so much for all your insight. My husband and I just bought our first home and purchased a RH table…little did I know all of the issues along with it!! Have you ever heard of “polyurethane” with a satin sheen? Thanks!
Yes, but that’s exact opposite of what I was hoping for when I purchased the natural finish.
We purchased the RH Salvaged Trestle Table Natural finish in July 2014. I knew it didn’t have protective finish and I didn’t want rings, however the reason I fell in love with this table is the color!!! When I researched, I found the Rubio Monocoat and that was what was recommended. My husband applied to table while I was gone instead of doing on underside to sample it first, like I asked. : 0 I was heartbroken. The table was dark and amber. He didn’t apply it to base after I saw the top. I have been sick and tried to just live with it and enjoy the table I had wanted for so long for our family of 6. I still am unhappy. I have thought about selling it and trying to purchase another one. After googling again today (2 1/2 years later) I found your blog. We are going to try the 0000 extra fine steel wool. I doubt it will look like what I originally fell in love with, but maybe it will be ok until I can find this table at outlet and sell this one. I don’t think I can bear to pay the retail on RH site for this again. Any recommendations from anyone are welcome!!!
From reading this thread I’m understanding that the MM dead flat varnish should not be used on raw wood but what about on the brown salvaged wood trestle table? I would love to hear from anyone who has that table and has successfully treated it to make it functional and practical while maintaining its original look as much as possible. Thanks to all for all of the great info that has been shared so far, and big thanks to Julie for this much needed thread!
Used Varathane Matte Finish Crystal Clear on RH natural finish table. Two coats on tabletop, one coat on remainder. Seems well protected. No change in color. It has a slight sheen, especially in direct sunlight, but not noticeable when sitting at the table (appears +|- matte close up). Second coat seemed to add the sheen. It’s not major. Seems like minor trade off for being able to use the table. If doing it again, I’d stop at one coat and see how it worked.
Yikes, I just purchased this table and wish I had read your experience before I did what I did. I hope I haven’t ruined my table. As soon as it arrived I applied a coat of Howard’s Premium Wax in neutral. Now it has white areas and it immediately stains with a white ring when you put anything on it. Help! I would love to do the tung oil treatment that you describe but should i remove the wax first? I love the rustic look and I don’t usually mind furniture looking like it’s been used, but this table is beyond that…the white is really a drag.
Thank you so much for any suggestions you can give me!
I’m just not sure but I believe I recall someone in early comments had a suggestion for how to fix the wax rings. I wish I could be of more help!
So much worry over a table! I appreciate this thread so much, thank you. So I of course, am nervous about my DIY skills. The wool pads? Is this done after the oil dries? While it’s wet? I’m coming into this convo after a year you’ve done this to your table? Are you still happy with the results? Do you have to apply the oil again? Thanks in advance. My table arrived 1/7/17…exciting!!
Does the dead flat vanish seal it well?
Hi, I can’t read the feed now and my question may be answered there. Where did you get the wood lantern? And is the dining set acacia wood? Thank you!
Thank you so much for your post! You make me feel less crazy, PLEASE don’t take that the wrong way. My husband has said for months that I am the only person on the face of this earth that is obsessed over having the perfect table. Today after months and months of waiting our custom made table has finally arrived (9″ too short and 2″ too wide(yes, I cried and cried and cried and then I cried some more).
That is brought me to your website, finding the perfect sealer for my Barnwood Farmhouse Table that needs to be remade, but in the meantime, I get to play with the finish of the short and fat farmhouse table. Thanks so much!!
I hope you enjoy it when it arrives. Happy Holidays!
Getting ready to order the salvage natural for dining room and salvage grey for kitchen.. Wanted to use the modern masters dead flat varnish after reading all the comments.. How did it work on your bedroom furniture I didn’t see an update? Thanks in advance???? Michelle
I haven’t gotten around to doing it yet – I’m not as worried for our bedroom because it’s not as suseptable to spills.
Hi, thank you for the post! I bought a rh table from someone who sealed it with poly so it’s dark and has a orange/red tone to it. After reading most of the comments (been reading for over an hour ????) I want to be sure I correctly bring it back to its original look. Sand to the raw pine, then apply to 100% pure tung oil. Or do I have to add a stain first then tung oil?
I don’t think it’s possible – there’s a powder coat that would be difficult to replicate.
Hi Sharon,
I have not received any feedback as of yet. I thought I would try the Modern Masters flat and Rustoleum that was mentioned on earlier posts. I will try it on the underside of the table tomorrow and let you know.
I’ve read through all of the comments but I did not see where someone had sealed their table with veneers? I purchased the st james round in salvaged grey and I’m trying to decide between tung oil, rustoleum varathane poly, or the modern masters. Has anyone tried this on this table? Thanks again for this info. It’s truly helped me narrow my choices.
Hi Rachel. I also purchased a veneer dining table, the Grand Baluster Extension table in the Weathered Oak Drifted finish. It is built from solid oak and fine veneers. I love the color as it is, but I’m so confused on what to put on this table to protect it as well. With it being veneer, I have no idea how that makes a difference. RH in ATL suggested the Howard product that they sell on website. Did you get any feedback regarding your veneer table?
Hi Julie, thank you so much for your informative posts! I’m about to purchase the Reclaimed Russian Oak Baluster Rectangular Extension Dining Table in the “Reclaimed Grey Oak” finish and am planning on adding the Modern Masters Dead Flat varnish to it. For the life of me, I’m not seeing the pictures that Linda mentioned; did you end up applying it to your bedroom furniture? How did it turn out? TIA!
Oooh! She emailed them to me, they look great. I’ll try to add them this week!
Thank you!!
I’m dying to know the outcome of your new bedroom furniture!! Just ordered the Modern Masters to do my kitchen table (about to place the order)… Waiting with GREAT anticipation! Thank you so much for this awesome post. So helpful!! love your blog.
I have ordered the same table . . . How did yours turn out. As I posted above, the technical support at Modern Masters told me that their dead flat finish was NOT meant for raw wood, which concerned me about using this finish
Jim,
After reading through every comment on this thread, I was really leaning toward trying the Modern Masters dead flat finish. However, your warning from the manufacturer gives me pause – did they say why they don’t recommend the product on raw wood? Is it toxic or something? Thanks for any info!
Eryn Giroux
So in the long run on the RH monastery table I have it in grey should I use the modern masters dead flat or tung oil , it gets confusing trying to read threw the comments , I want protection but to keep it looking as purchased ?
I’m not sure – I’ve not done a side by side comparison. It’s truly a personal choice.
I’m just sharing my experience with my RH natural finished table. I used Rubio Monocoat “pure” and “natural” mixed (2:1). It changed the color completely it’s MUCH darker and has a gray tone to the wood. My husband thinks in looks better, I’m okay with it.. still very pretty and bullet proof, but like the previously poster stated.. if you are looking to retain the color that RH delivers to you, I didn’t have any luck with the Rubio Monocoat.
Hello, Wanted to give my recent experience with our new restoration hardware natural finish table. We used 100% tung oil (same brand of oil, towels, & steel wool you mentioned) I think the darkening depends on how “thirsty” your table is. Our table is way darker, almost walnut color now. It is a shocking color difference. Some board are shades darker than others. It has lightened very slighly over the past month. The new color works well with our wood floors but I could see if you though it was going to remain the same or similar color or to when purchased you would cry. Our table is kid proof now and we love it…..even though it is a completely different color! Happy to share pictures if anyone is interested.
Lois – Did you wipe off the powder finish before applying Rustoleum? Did you apply with a brush? Would love to see a picture of the final product!
Julie – I am amazed at your quick and gracious responses to everyone! I’ve had my table for less than a week and I must admit I’m stressed out about what to do! I am testing all the recommended products on the underside of one of the extensions before committing! Monocoat oil definately darkens the look…on to the Rustoleum Lois recommends, only because it sounds a tad easier than your process. I’ll let ya know where I land!
Dianna….where did you land? I am leaning towards Lois’ recommendation. Julie…thanks so much for sharing your results and the responses. They have been so helpful! I bought a table second hand and it has a few water marks already. It is 4 years old and looks fine in my opinion. I have been using placemats and coasters, but am so uptight about something getting on the table that I am making my family not want to eat on it. I am not cut out to worry with the raw finish and have to seal it ASAP. This is in our kitchen, so it will get daily use. I need something that will give me durability without darkening the finish too much.
Hi! Just a light wipe with micro fiber cloth to remove dust. Several years later we are ver pleased with the finish. Minimal color change and only the faintest sheen. No yellowing from exposure to sunlight.
I have the same RH table as you, Julie, and after reading about your experience, and that of various commenters, and doing some research off the blog, I decided to apply Rustoleum’s Varathane Polyurethane, Matte Finish to my table. It is incredibly easy to apply, no sanding required, has no smell and dries in less than two hours, at which time a second coat can be applied. The instructions recommend three coats. There is no discernible change in color and less sheen than the pictures of your table with the Tung Oil finish. I thought this might be of interest to your readers who are considering ways to seal their RH reclaimed wood tables. One caveat: the poly appears milky in the can, but dries clear.
Absolutely! Thanks for sharing, Lois!
If only people would read through ALL of the comments before asking questions… Such is the life of a DIY blogger.
Julie, your patience astounds me.
I purchased a farmhouse table from Overstock and it says there is a wax finish on it. Can I use the tung oil on the wax finish?
I wouldn’t, I would only use it on raw wood.
Has anyone tried any of the RH touch-up kits?
This has been a super helpful site! So glad I found it! We just ordered a RH table – Dumont Round – it’s solid elm and fine veneers. Any experience with this table and/or combination? Does 100% tung oil work on this as well? The salesperson at RH suggested to coat it with Briwax but I want to make sure I am protecting it as much as possible as soon as we get it! https://www.restorationhardware.com/catalog/product/product.jsp?productId=prod2480623&categoryId=search
I also used Modern Masters Dead Flat Varnish on my reclaimed wood table and it looks amazing! Completely natural looking (unchanged from the unfinished appearance) but protected.
After reading all the comments on here, I decided to use the Modern Masters Dead Flat, and, it looks AMAZING!!!! You can’t tell untreated from the treated. It was so simple to apply. I did two coats. It dries to the touch in 30 minutes, but I waited 24 hours between coats. I tested it by spilling water on it, it beaded up and wiped up with no staining! I am so, so happy I made this decision! I can use my table and enjoy it!
Thanks to everyone that commented so I could make my decision!
I’d love for you to share a photo!
Julie,
I will take go over to the house and take a picture tomorrow.
I tested first by using the Modern Masters Dead Flat on half the table, and letting it dry, the next day we could detect no change in color at all!
I’ll look and see if I have a picture in my camera already, but I promise you,it was so easy, no odor and cleans up with water!
Julie,
Here’s a picture, (if this works). I took it after both coats were dry. House is still under construction. I can go get some close up pictures tomorrow if you would like them. Our painter was amazed at the dead flat finish. I didn’t wipe the powder finish off, and no brown residue came off during the application process.
I am honestly in awe. It took almost the whole bottle of varnish, but it wasn’t a huge bottle. Clean and easy to apply by brush. Hope this works, and can help anyone worried about their table. I wrote to RH and told them about this product and told them they may want to have this applied by the maker as it doesn’t change any “artistic quality” of the existing finish.
https://gm1.ggpht.com/nEfxRZ-VbxyoFUkaTYMu3ZO9gOnXbVrEsvn74uSrZ66KpoCVRkaN3ulASjgt5YZyMDwYfZtPV56PJW2KJUFZxpKnZkjvYRXV1l2fRfDXkgzeGKjP1LeoYV-vRe7sR17q73PHs1-JiMIq5DJmc3YnL4YBf-SRYgRem2EZJgg35GFdhgASWNNhXih-RXxTPOY4qJ96SxxHVi-15t9p_iG4HXGytMM1–B8shAByvtQQlzBbYzjLclZKxmYEZPXJjzhoXrfavthFNQX3H5ASBgQ6QVK2vZsofui6VnXhkd1FEgEYeichig240TOKWKcE-oK3y82MC7aFRD81dSBd_YKxVyyFPgdBAyTcr31K1yZKilIkgqzPrkL0nhaJiihph3Ksi-SpH9oa2CxEt52Tp3WUi5MQYKnhayS0UCXjpYz9nTKq1LYC7XqC9qxNiOwNZR7zAlcoQJ6lnuCDz4TqVRzBG8mtd4SOBSEd0LpOsrFHlZxY1KzXJFGwYL33nsxgJwDliiUeqojj8gwl9O3y-gdDpFpXJ5xsyjKZTJ5nRj9Gyua0hZ2V7ujYUJvhLj5-7AXbNfOdW-Kr8Jl28htFHzUk5YLdxITOkHZATAfgmTG7QgnnjHWRLUIgUaul5aSJt_pmFORh3waV-NSXrKobTavQtyVdUj7MwTwzNgC6MniYFvLuW4o44pKjAZe-Z6kMKljr9zLYHwkPCsTBw=w1366-h643-l75-ft
You are so sweet. Can you please email it to me at julieblanner {at} me {dot} com? I’m using it for our bedroom furniture!
Paula,
We are about to test a flat poly, the modern masters, and the tung oil. Could you tell me how you applied the modern masters flat varnish? With a rag, roller, etc. Any elaboration would be helpful. Thanks!
Also, Julie, did you use it on your bedroom furniture? How did it compare to the tung oil in your experience?
It’s arrived mangled! I’ll receive my new furniture in 2 weeks. I’m going to do the flat poly for the bedroom, Linda’s pictures were gorgeous. I’ll post them as soon as I have Internet access on my laptop (I’m out of town).
Tai,
I just noticed your post. I’ve been posting on Houzz about MM Dead Flat.
I used a brush, it still looks exactly the same. No change in color at all, and still dead flat and has the powdery finish. That was my goal, I wanted the color and finish to remain as it came. I really could not be happier with it.
You have probably done yours by now, how did it turn out?
I call Modern Masters about their dead flat varnish, and they told me that this product is NOT meant for bare wood, but meant to even the sheen of painted finishes. The guy I talked to was a product specialist and discouraged me from doing it. This has made me nervous about using it on my RH table that will be delivered soon… Any feedback?
We just purchased the Flatiron table in reclaimed natural elm:
(https://www.restorationhardware.com/catalog/product/product.jsp?productId=prod2690642&categoryId=cat1676025)
After talking to a friend who was in shock that I bought a “raw” table with 2 toddler boys, and a messy husband, I googled treating the wood and came across your post. I have successfully read every comment, but wonder if the tung oil will work for this particular finish. Anyone else have this table and seal it? I don’t want to hide my table with a table cloth, it will be a table that will be used when company comes over or holidays, not an “everyday” table. But, I just want to make sure I protect it, for years to come. Help! And thank you ????
I’m not sure, but hopefully another reader will respond asap!
Hi Melody! We just purchased the flatiron bar table with the natural elm top. It seemed so raw and vulnerable to us with our messy kids too! Albeit magazine beautiful, we use ours daily and I didn’t want to worry :). So, I used General Finishes butcher block oil (safe natural mineral oil) no odor, because that’s what I had on hand and wanted to provide a little protection right away. It seemed to do the trick but it does darken the wood, so keep that in mind. I was actually hoping that it would darken so I personally didn’t mind that effect. So I would think that if mineral oil worked fine , the tung oil would be fine too and sounds like a good choice from reading these posts. We may also eventually do the clear coat matte varnish at some point. I just think that long term it will provide the best protection. Good luck!
Thank you so much! Our table was delivered this past weekend, but ended up being too small. So we have the next size up being delivered in a couple weeks, I will definitely be treating it. Thank you so much for sharing your experience! It is such a gorgeous table, I can’t wait till its in my dining room 🙂
Hi Julie, I just realized that I forgot to mention that my table is the salvage brown finish. Thanks!
Hi Julie, I’ve written before about the trestle table I purchased from Restoration Hardware. I ordered “Hopes” 100% pure Tung oil on Amazon and just used it on one section of my table. I wiped it on with a flour sack towel, as I is didn’t want to over apply with a brush. I had done this to the trestle base a couple months ago and it worked great, but I just noticed that the top was looking clouded in some areas. I applied the Tung oil yesterday morning and today it was still not dry. My husband was working at the table this morning when I noticed that it wasn’t quite dry. Where he was resting his wrists was leaving marks, so I asked him to move to the other side, which I hadn’t treated. Now I’m wondering if having his laptop and papers over the still drying Tung oil has made it dry cloudy. I’m not sure what to do at this point and I’m afraid to apply to the other parts of the table now. Any help would be much appreciated. Thank you, Lori
Eek! I frequently work on my laptop and have even set hot pots on nothing but linen napkins and haven’t had that issue. I’ll approve your comment in hopes another reader can help. You may also want to reach out to the manufacturer of the tung oil you used.
First : thank you so much Julie for this blog, you have me the courage to buy the boulangerie table I wanted … I hopefully will be covering it in tung oil soon but first.
How is everyone dealing with the crumb situation? Honestly ? Is it driving you mad? Do you regret buying your RH table because of that? Any tips to keep it clean?
I received the table 3 days ago, requesting an exchange because i got a rough version and would like to see if the next one is better (given that they are all so different). But in the meantime my Husband decided that it was completely crazy to deal with the separation between the boards.. I am blinded by the aesthetic and promising him we will be fine but… Thoughts? Advice? Feedback on the crumb situation?
It doesn’t phase me…they usually wipe out easily and every once in a while I use a knife to do a deep clean. I remember having the same in my mom’s table when I was growing up.
Thank you Julie for the reply ! I don’t think I can return it anyway now.. I pet her twice a day just for the pleasure of feeling that wood..
I have to say I was disappointed the first half day or so. From the pictures I had a different idea of the table and the wood came out rawer/newer more splintery and with some yellow pine touches coming out. The planks all around my table are perfect, it is the one in the middle that are not. Fast forward 48h I am not even fazed by the yellow anymore.
I can see what you mean about the powdery finish. There is def one even though it doesn’t show, but someone wiped a bit of water on one corner of my table and it gives an idea of what it will look like I guess with the tung oil or Rubio monocoat (you must know this thread http://www.houzz.com/discussions/747575/restoration-hardware-dining-table). I will try both underneath before deciding. I think all tables react a bit differently.
Help! I just purchased the RH balustrade coffee table in distressed natural. Two days later: crayon marks from my kids…which they tried to clean off with a wet rag, removing the finish! Now the distressed finish has multiple bright spots though out! What would you suggest to even out the finish and try to restore it to a distressed look? Also- how can I best protect this table so this doesn’t happen again. I have zero experience restoring or staining furniture so I’m afraid to make the damage worse. And I’m mad at myself for making such an expensive stupid purchase! Thanks for any help!!!
So I bought tung oil, tested it on a piece of sample wood – and WE LOVED IT!!! The Tung Oil not only protects the wood — but the finish looks amazing! We prefer a little more wood texture and like the slightly darker color — looks AMAZING! Thank you so much for have this post — we were very concerned about what to do — and thanks to you we love it even more!!
So glad to hear that, Ken! I hope you enjoy your table as much as we enjoy ours.
Can we use this oil for the Flatiron dining table?
Alos, where do we buy the steel wool?
Of course, it just depends on what “finish” you have as to whether or not it’s necessary. Any hardware store.
Hi!
I’ve purchased this table and it’s on the way.
https://www.restorationhardware.com/catalog/product/product.jsp?productId=prod2350144
I contacted RH and they said if anything spill is on it it will leave a stain! Is this the same finish as your table? Can I use tung oil on mine too?
I can’t see what finish you purchased – it wasn’t a direct link. However, I’ve only experienced the “salvaged natural” finish.
Well I found your blog after searching reviews of this restoration hardware table:). I have 4 young kids… So I’m guessing you would not recommend to me:(. I don’t want to be crazy over them sitting eating/drawing/play dough at it. What would you recommend to me?
I have 3 kids 6 and under and we love our table {finished with tung oil}. In addition to eating all of our meals there, we spend hours coloring and crafting. Everything but permanent marker has come off of it.
Julie,
We purchase the same trestle table, however with the marble top – which I’m prepared to deal with.But I believe the finish on the legs etc underneath is the same as yours. Did you only apply the tung oil to the top of your table? Trying to decide if I’ve really need to worry about the legs?
We did because with littles, spills can just as easily make their way to the legs. The marble top is beautiful!
Have you added anything to the natural wood chairs purchased from RH? We just ordered 4 of the bow back windsor chairs, and I’m wondering if I should protect them with something as my 2 year old often ends up with a pile of leftover food in his chair.
No, ours are more of a veneer.
Hi Julie….I actually was about to buy the RH Trestle table (natural) b4 i read this post….decided to go with Crate & Barrels Paloma Table http://www.crateandbarrel.com/paloma-ii-reclaimed-wood-dining-table/s206121…which is also a reclaimed wood table, (although not sure how thick the veneer is actually….but its the same story “use a coaster” “wood will stain” ….the surface actually will give you small splinters in your skin if you slide your fingers over it…so i will use your advise with the 100% tung oil and see if this will hopefully smooth out the finish as well as seal it…thanks!
-Matt
Veneer is completely different…I’d use caution and carefully consider before proceeding.
We just bought a boulangerie RH table and I think it is too rough and want to and it smooth and then put tongue oil on it. Has anyone experienced trying to sand one of these bought wood tables and what was your result? thanks Andrew
It will lose a lot of the characteristics that differentiate it from building one on your own from pine at the hardware store.
Hey There, I just bought a RH table and immediately placed table cloths over it because I have 5 kids and need to make it wipe-able. Did you apply the tung oil on the table inside your home or in another place? Do you think it would be okay to apply the tung oil on the table inside my home. He have almost no outdoor space to do this kind of project.
Yes, just place a drop cloth underneath and realize that the smell is bearable, but unpleasant.
Just read that you did not wipe powder coat off or use paint thinner ????
Hi! Do you know of anyone using the 100% tung oil on the flatiron table in reclaimed natural elm?
I am also wondering if I can use on the flatiron table?
Also where do we buy the steel wool?
This particular table doesn’t have ANY finish on it. Despite being labeled as a “salvaged natural finish” this table does not have any sort of coating. For all intent and purposes it’s a raw wood table. So to generate expectations that it will hold up to daily wear and tear is unrealistic. Most of the colored finishes that are used by RH are wax based which seals the grain and pores of the wood making most tables easy to maintain. The Salvaged Brown finish as an example, is a wax based finish that causes water and other liquids to bead on the surface making it easy to wipe up and maintain. One of the beautiful things about a raw wood table is the patina it gains overtime. Each stain becomes a memory and a story that makes the table unique to the family that owns it. My grandfather made my grandmother a raw wood farm table and it’s in my house today. It’s covered in cigarette burns (gramma was a pack a day smoker) and wine stains and a million other anecdotes of love that a family has created over time. And I wouldn’t trade those memories for anything in the world.
I absolutely love and appreciate a raw wood table, but I can tell you from experience that there is a powder finish on the “salvaged natural finish”, hence the word “finish”. It wipes right off, leaving the raw pine, which would also be beautiful, but not as purchased.
Hi Julie! This blog posting has been incredibly helpful for me – thank you! Unfortunately, I didn’t find it until we already had a few blemishes from water spills and general use. BUT – I went ahead an used the General Finishes Flat Out Flat water-based topcoat product mentioned above and I had to share that I think it is phenomenal. I put on 3 coats on the top and 2 coats on the bottom trestle components and it held up wonderfully against our SuperBowl party testers last night. The color didn’t change much (maybe slightly grayer?) and the finish stays completely flat – no shine. Highly recommend!
That is SO great to know! Thank you so much for sharing!
Hi Tina,
The fact that this finish was completely flat is very appealing to me. My 1900 Boulangerie table will be delivered on March 5th. I think I’m going to try the General Finishes in a small unnoticeable spot and also the Tung Oil as well. I’m a little put off by the Tung Oil due to the number of commentaries that were dealing with a left-over brown residue. Is this the General Finishes you used?
http://www.amazon.com/General-Finishes-Flat-Topcoat-Quart/dp/B013F9N9EG
Tina,
I have the RH brown salvaged wood trestle table. I was also planing to use the general finishes flat out flat as others have commented that the tung oil is not recommended for the brown finish. Can you tell me how you applied the product and if you are able to now wipe the table with a damp cloth to clean etc.
Thanks so much.
Thank you Julie! A little trick that worked for us to greatly reduce the obvious watermarks…. I took a Norwex microfiber cloth (wet, but wrung out as much as possible), and worked the edges of the water stain, then took a dry microfiber cloth and buffed over it. It blended the watermark so that it didn’t have such obvious edges. Our tung oil is due to arrive tomorrow! Can’t be here too soon! My heart can’t take any more scares with this table!! Sigh.
Hi Julie 🙂 Whew, my eyes are tired after reading through all those comments! You are so great to answer everyone’s questions and concerns. Our table arrived a week ago and I did not realize we needed to protect it and we have a few small watermarks (nothing too serious yet but it is still bugging me as this table cost us an arm and a leg – we are in Canada so our dollar sucks right now). It’s now covered with a waterproof table cloth. I have ordered the 100% pure tung oil and will be finishing it per your instructions. Question: will the tung oil help to hide the watermarks on the wood? The watermarks are lighter than the powder finish. I am just wondering if they will look less obvious once we get the table oiled. Anyone have experience with this? Thanks!!
Yes, it will reduce them, but not eliminate them. Sorry you’ve had the same experience!
Thank you! I ordered some on Amazon. ????
Hi Julie, I just had my Salvaged brown trestle table delivers to our Bend, Or. home. I was surprised that there were no care instructions, so I did a search and found your blog. I called the store and was told only to use a dry cloth and if I wanted to add some further ptotection against spills, that I could use clear furniture wax. It’s odd that I can’t use a damp mild soapy cloth after we use the table, then dry well. I’m going to try the Tung oil, do I have to use thinner? I’m worried about the brown coming off as many have reported. Where are people getting the 100%Tung oil? I have always planned on placemats and a runner for this table, but I would still like some added insurance. Thank you!
I purchased it online, but it is carried in some stores. I didn’t use thinner on our second table. Read through the comments for specifics from other readers on your finish.
Has anyone used the Briwax recommended by Restoration Hardware? If so were you pleased, did it change the color and most importantly did it protect the table from spills etc.?
There are several comments about it with user experience.
Julie, I’m sorry to be asking again. But could you please e-mail me your most recent process again. I am going on my 3rd 60″ round Dumont table from RH – due to cracks. When I get the 3rd one in, if it is a keeper, I would like to follow your 3 coats of 100% tung oil process exact. Thank you in advance!
Hi, how much WoodRiver Pure Tung Oil did it take to coat 1 table– 1 pint? 1 quart? more? less?
I have 3 RH tables:
Balustrade Salvaged Wood Coffee Table – natural, 71″W x 47″D
Salvaged Wood Kitchen Island, natural, 66″L x 35″W
Dumont Dining Table, Aged Elm, 108″L x 39¼”W
I at LEAST want to coat the coffee table since we’re having a baby next week(!) and I think that’s going to get the most damage….
How much would I need for the coffee table only? and how much for all 3 tables?
Thanks so much for your help!!
We used less than a pint/table.
I am so nervous after just purchasing the salvaged brown wood trestle table from the outlet. After reading all this, I wish I went with a concrete top with having 3 kids and this is our kitchen table.
I am so confused on what I should do to protect it? I really don’t want to darken the wood color. What is my best option here? What about the Briwax mentioned on the RH website?
Read previous comments on wax. I think you’ll find all of them helpful.
What kind of camera are you using for the photos? The up-close pictures of the wood grain look pretty neat the way you got one specific area to focus sharply, with the rest of the photo in a soft blur.
It’s not the camera, but the lens. I usually create a bokeh effect using my 24-105 or 50mm.
Hi Julie!
Are you able to pass my email address on to JamieLee who posted on November 21st? I would really like to connect with her to see how the product she used worked for her. Or is there a way I could get her email contact?
We just bought the Salvaged Wood X-base in salvaged grey and I had no idea that the table would be powdery and stain so easily. I quickly realized this as my daughter spilled something on her placemat and it seeped through. I gasped as I came to discover that even using a placemat won’t protect the table. Now I don’t know what to do as we had not even begun our research on protecting the table. Will they take it back? Will we be able to save it somehow? I wish I would have read these posts before we sat down to use it for the first time. I am sick about this and am hoping someone can give me advice.
Good news, if you purchased from the regular store, they will take it back. I’m sorry, I know how stressful it can be.
Thanks so much for this! Read all the comments, table is on the way. Preparing to finish alternating with tung oil and steel wool. Only question is did you buy a gallon or quart of the tung oil? We also have to do a matching bench.
I purchased a bottle, so closer to a quart.
Thank you for this incredibly helpful information! I do not have a RH table, but a solid black walnut table (smooth finish, not distressed) with the same frustrating powder finish which I have accidentally already wiped off since I didn’t know what I was doing! Do you think the 100% Tung Oil will work on this type of wood as well?
I’m not sure, but hopefully someone else in this thread will have experience and respond.
We just purchased a 1900 Boulangerie table in Salvaged Grey. Do you recommend using the same 3 coats of Tung Oil (w steel wool)?
Unfortunately I have no experience with that finish, but others in the comments might.
HI there, not sure if I missed this going through this very helpful thread – but was there a reason that a clear satin/flat polyurethane spray wouldn’t do the trick? Local woodworking store is recommending this to avoid any amber tones that a pure tung oil could still add and also, this supposedly adds more protection?
Thanks so much in advance!! Hoping to have our new table protected in time for Christmas dinner!?!
Best,
Kristen
@kristen that would do the trick it’s just that it would likely need to be done by a professional to get the desired result. Did you end up doing this finish? Would love to know cost and how it turned out!
Just curious have you guys had any experience/heard anything RE: the “reclaimed” finishes as the RECLAIMED RUSSIAN OAK BALUSTER Table seems to give a similar look to the Salvaged Trestle, but appears from pics to be a little more “finished” on the edges/not as worn? wondering if would alleviate the need to use the tung oil/more practical for everyday use or think will run into the same issues?
All was wondering if you were familiar w/ the “Textured” Oak finishes?
Thanks again for all your input, extremely helpful! 🙂
JamieLee- I would love to learn how the product you used handled during your Thanksgiving holiday. It sounds very promising! Julie-thanks for all the information! I’m of course choosing between 100% tung oil and the product that JamieLee tried. Hoping to hear from JamieLee and I’m sure lots of other people would love to know how it has protected the table too!
Merry Christmas!!
Hi Julie,
Did you use the tung oil on the base of the table as well as the top? Also, for those that purchased this table in brown, do you have any suggestions for finishes?
Thanks!
We did, Jenny.
One more thing this is an ethan allen table, beautiful wood. We got it at an estate sale, it had some water damage. It has been sanded smooth, pre conditioner applied and two coats of stain. I understand your table is a little different in that it is not a smooth finish. Still think it would be heat safe. Thanks
I do! Wood is wood. I would never directly put anything hot on it, but with trivets, hot pads, etc, you should be fine.
Thanks so much
Do you think tung oil would protect the table from heat. We use pot holders and racks for placing food on the table. Do you think this would work this this?
I’m not sure, but I haven’t had any issues and I place hot pots on pot holders and even linens.
My husband found an older hardware table at a garage sale a few weeks ago and I have been thinking about looking into restoration so that we can use it in our dining room. The overall table is actually in really good shape, it just could use a few finishing coats. I have been thinking about doing in myself but I have no experience with furniture. This one might be up to the professionals!
Like you- I bought this table but freaked when I realized it was completely without a protective finish! I am not naive to think it will not eventually get marked- it’s a farmhouse table!! But I wanted to keep it beautiful for at least longer than a day! I sat here night after night reading and rereading your post and the comments/suggestions. I was so sad! So it sat for the past 4 months with a beautiful centerpiece and runner. Now Thanksgiving is approaching so it was time to handle this!!
After additional researching, we settled on using “Modern Masters Dead Flat Varnish”. Absolutely amazing stuff!!! We used a tac cloth for the dust first and then just brushed the varnish on. I cannot post a picture here but it’a a completely dry look. We had bought the RH chairs to match and I was worried that I would be able to tell the difference in color but honestly- I would almost say this didn’t change the shade at all. No sheen at all! It dried completely flat. Love love love this product! It was a little pricey- 30.00 for a quart- but I figured that since we paid good money on this table, I was NOT going to cheap out on a finish!!!
I can breathe a sigh of relief and finally use my table!!! Thank you for all of your tips and thank you to all of the commenters! Happy Thanksgiving!!!
Can you email me an image I can share with readers? Thanks for sharing!
Jamie lee did you order on amazon? Was it the regular or low voc? Did it perform at thanksgiving as expected? I am waiting for my table to arrive and was considering glass after reading all of this which ruins the whole effect. One quart enough?
Hi Jamie,
We just bought the same varnish to try to protect our table. How many coats did you apply and how many hours in between each coat? Does it protect against water (like glass rings)?
Crossing our fingers it works!!
It does! We did 3 coats and just did a couple hours between each.
Hi Julie,
I’m so glad I found your post. I’ve had the same trestle table in the original raw finish for over a year now. We covered the table with a waterproof tablecloth, but we basically hid the beauty of the table. I am finally ready to add some protection to the table and use it without any tablecloth. I have some questions regarding your instructions. When I apply the true tung oil, you mention that you are suppose to apply it with paint thinner the first time, do you mix the paint thinner with the tung oil? Which brand paint thinner did you use? After that, did you reapply the true tung oil again for a 2nd coat? Thanks!
I’ve done a couple tables now – skip the paint thinner and just apply 3 coats of stung oil, using steel wool in between. Enjoy!
I have the RH Trestle Table in Salvaged Gray and just tried 100% Tung Oil on one of the leaves. It immediately darkens it a bit so will be curious to see if it stays the darker color or lightens back up. Either way, I’ll be happy. I just want the peace of mind of a table that I don’t have to worry about!
I found that between using steel wool and time it lightens up on the salvaged natural finish. Please keep me posted on the result of your finish for other readers.
I applied two coats of the 100% Tung Oil (no paint thinner) on the table top and one coat on the base last night. Steel wool in between the two coats. It does have a slight sheen and darkened ever so slightly. I’m not in love with the sheen but I LOVE the color! I am going to use the steel wool on it one more time. I’m torn on whether I need to apply a 3rd coat or leave as is.
You’ll lose the sheen the more you use steel wool. Put a little muscle into it 😉 It’s kind of exhausting.
Jacque, please tell me you photos! Our Salvaged grey trestle table arrives tomorrow, and I’d love to see how yours turned out with the Tung oil.
Jacque – How has it kept up? Have any pictures?
How many coats did you do? We’re they thick coats. And how long did you allow to cure between coats?????thank you!
We did 3, allowing it to set 6 hours between. I wouldn’t say thick, but we have wiped on and only removed the excess that pops back up.
I have purchased the salvaged natural trestle table and have practiced the 100%tung oil process recommended by Julie on the underside of one of the leaves. After two coats of the Woodcraft 100% tung oil and overnight drying, a wet glass is still staining the table and leaving ring marks. I applied a third coat today and will test with a wet glass again tomorrow. I want to make sure the process will protect against stains before I do the actual table top! Has your table been stain free since the tung oil? Wondering why my experience is different? hoping three coats is the charm!
It has, but maybe yours hasn’t cured yet? Several readers have left notes in comments as well that you might find helpful.
Jennifer – did your table end up resisting the water marks after three coats? In the same boat as you were…
More info on RH tables and experiences found here: http://www.houzz.com/discussions/747575/restoration-hardware-dining-table
I just purchased the RH salvaged natural trestle table. I applied the same Woodcraft 100% True Tung Oil to my new table this past weekend. It darkened the table significantly and brought out amber tones that I do not like. I hope this will lighten a bit. The color and feel of the original table is lost to me. Between each coat I wiped down the table very, very well and dulled the finish with superfine steel wool, per the instructions on this blog.
However —-The table still feels oily to the touch and brown comes off on the towels that I wipe it down with. Any idea as to whether this will stop as it cures over time? I read that this has happened to other people, but I cannot carry my table outside to sit in the sun. Any other suggestions?
Also, If the color does not lighten over time, do you think I can remove the tung oil and try something different? I feel like I should lightly sand it with very fine sandpaper or something. Any thoughts?
I used one coat of 100% pure tung oil on one of my leaves and it has lightened significantly over the past 5 months. Tung oil takes months to cure as far as I understand and I think that is why. When powder finish gets “wet” with oil it darkens, as the tung oil dries and hardens it will get a bit lighter. Now if you use more than one coat of tung oil perhaps it will take longer to dry and it may remain darker if the powder is saturated and not able to fully dry out underneath. Just a guess.
Found this info online as well.
Question how long does it take tung oil to cure/dry?
“Some of the confusion comes from the fact that you don’t have to wait for a complete cure to apply additional coats. However, the primary reason there is so much conflicting advice is that they are so many different types of products labeled as “Tung Oil”. There are the three major varieties:
Pure, Unadulterated Tung Oil
Probably the least common variation, pure, unadulterated tung oil is the most difficult to work with (that’s why the other variations are so common). It doesn’t penetrate into the wood as well as the others and takes longest to cure.
A full cure can take 15 – 30 days, depending on the nature of the application and the temperature, humidity, and air circulation of the curing atmosphere. However, you only need to wait one or two days between coats.
Modified or Polymerized Tung Oil
Because pure, unadulterated tung oil takes so long to cure and has poor penetrating properties, many companies sell tung oil that has been heated to encourage polymerization. Depending on for how long its been heated, the result may too thick to work with and so polymerized tung oil is often mixed with solvents by the manufacturer to aid penetration and workability. Probably there are varieties out there that have solvents but haven’t been polymerized. Depending on the solvent, modified tung oil may not be food-safe like pure tung oil.
Note that even products labeled as “pure” tung oil can be polymerized and have different drying and penetrating behavior than pure, unadulterated tung oil.
The time between coats depends on the formula and amount of heating done by the manufacturer. You’re best bet is to follow the times listed on the can.
Complete Impostors
Many products labeled “Tung Oil Finish” are actually more like a wiping varnish than an oil. In my experience, these are often the only variety sold in the Big Box home improvement stores. They leave a finish that resembles tung oil but you’ll often read people complaining that they have no tung oil at all. Only the manufacturers know for sure because tung oil is not hazardous and therefore doesn’t need to be reported on an MSDS. They have much different food-safe and water-protection properties than tung oil.
Again, the curing time and time between coats for these products will depend on what the manufacturer uses. A good first approximation should be listed in the instructions on the can.”
Citrus solvent might contain orange oils which might darken the table more than 100% pure tung.
This looks really good! I’m restoring some antique wooden chairs that are in kind of rough shape this weekend. I’ve never done this before so I really hope I don’t mess it up. The fabric also really needs restored too, but I’m not confident I could fix the leather properly. I might be in over my head on this one… agh. Maybe I should just take it to a professional, and start my DIY adventures on something a little less advanced.
All- Thank you for your extremely helpful comments. We just purchased the Natural Elm Flatiron table, the Dutch Industrial coffee and console table also in natural elm and the Printmaker bedroom set in Antique Pine. I would love to know if I can/should use the 100% True Tung oil and paint thinner recipe on all the pieces.
This is our first RH major purchases and we want to ensure we protect them asap without altering the color too much. If anyone else has experience with using Tung oil on the Printmaker in Antique Pine please post. Thanks!
Hi Julie,
I ordered the salvaged natural farmhouse dining table from RH! Received it 4 days ago!! I purchased Milk Paint’s pure tung oil/citrus solvent 50/50 mix.
I did 2 coats on the top and 1 coat on the legs. Could you tell me if the finish gets lighter as the days go by? My table is slightly darker than I would have liked. The color darkened as if I had “wet” the wood. I did use the super fine steel wool in between coats so the finish is perfect. Nice and matte. Just thought the color wouldn’t darken so much… Let me know!! Thanks!!
I’ve never used that…I only recommend 100% pure tung oil. I would recommend that you use steel wool in hopes of lightening the finish, but that’s the issue with blended tung oil – they generally use minerals that darken it.
Thanks for your prompt reply! So the color doesn’t “naturally” lighten as it dries? In other words, what I see is what I get? 🙂
Natalia
The product that I bought is 50% pure tung oil and 50% paint thinner just in case you might think that I bought a local hardware store tung oil blend… the tung oil part is 100% pure tung oil… Hope this helps!! ????????
Still a blend – I use 100% tung oil. It does slightly darken, but very minimally.
Natalia
I bought the 100% pure tung oil from The Real Milk Paint Co. (not the one mixed with citrus solvent) and used it on one of my leaves and it has lightened with time but it took several months to lighten. I wish I would have done the whole table in Tung oil. I ended up waxing it and TOTALLY REGRET it. 🙁
This is extremely helpful reading. I stumbled upon it after just purchasing the 20TH C. RECLAIMED PINE TRESTLE in Antique Pine. I am now planning on treating with Tung Oil and steel wool immediately after delivery. Do you know if the antique pine is also a powder coat and if the tung oil will alter the color more than just slightly?
I only have experience with the salvaged natural finish. You can peruse through my blog posts to see the table in various settings and light.
Ross, I was wondering how your table turned out. I just purchased the exact same one.
Your original post cracked me up! It is exactly the same way my husband and I feel about the 10 million dollar RH table, as my husband kindly refers to it…. We pined over it for a year before we could bite the bullet and didn’t read the placemat and coaster fine print either. Same circumstances as you – water rings and a spill – so now it just sits idly in my kitchen unused and treated like a museum piece (I should charge admission to help pay off the debt!). Anyhow, my question is this – I like the powder coated color of the table and want to use the Pure Tung Oil but how should I handle the stains? Any thoughts?
I’m sorry you have had the same experience (twice!). It’s a shame. That coaster/placemat commentary should be in BOLD print ahead of the fluffy font and grey-tone cathartic photos.
Frustrated!
Hilarious! I have no idea how to handle the stains, unfortunately! I’d just seal it to protect it from further stains. The second table we purchased and protected immediately and haven’t had any issues with. I can still hear them say smugly “Enjoy your dining table – that you can’t dine at.”
Thanks for getting back to me! I am forging ahead with your Pure Tung Oil…. I think I’ll try and gently blend the stains in with a damp rag. I’ll let you know how it all worked out!
Ciao for now,
Soozie
Good luck, I know it’s stressful, so take a deep breath and remember it’s just a table and do your best. Enjoy!
Hi Julie – I just received my new RH table in the Salvaged Natural finish and am planning to apply the 100% tung oil as you suggest. Will that allow me to use a wet cloth to wipe the table clean after meals? I don’t think I’d be happy having to use a dry cloth all the time. Thank you so much for your advice!
Yes, which is why I love it! I use cleaner or soap and water to clean our table after meals.
Hi Julie, I have a 60x 60 Dutch Industrial coffee table of reclaimed natural elm table that I would like to protect without hanging color or make shiny. Any suggestions?
If it’s the natural finish, the same method should have the same result. Test the underneath to see if it is a good fit for you.
We’re expecting delivery of the RH salvaged wood farmhouse table in natural in a day. I plan to apply pure tung oil without diluting with thinner per your blog. (Thank you, thank you, thank you for your indepth treatment of this subject — I would not have known what to do!) Question — does applying the tung oil seal the powdered finish, or will there be a loose powdery finish to the table after applying the tung oil? Are we going to feel like we need to wipe down the table to prevent powder from being on/wiping off onto everything? Many thanks in advance!
I haven’t had that issue, but two others said they did. We loosely applied the tung oil so that we didn’t wipe off much of the powder finish and it seemed to seal. Of course after we applied, dulled with steel wool, etc, we did wipe the table down to remove any residue. You might want to do it to the bottom of the tabletop first just to make sure you’re okay with the end result. We love it – the appearance is slightly altered, but unfortunately the powder finish alone we all love just isn’t practical.
We had a ton of brown residue for up to a week after doing the process recommended in this post. I finally took a sponge with some soapy water to it and then dryed overnight. The next day we let it sit out in the 90 degree sun for about 5 hours and that really seemed to help with the residue and the smell.
We love our table but the tung oil changes the look a bit so be prepared. It darkens the dark spots a lot more. Julie I would be happy to share pictures if you want.
Travis,
I would love to see your pictures. jessica.b.collie@gmail.com
Hi David! Do you have any pictures of your Salvaged natural farmhouse table? We are considering ordering it but the table ya not on display in any of the showrooms – would I’ve to see it “in real life” before taking the leap! Also, any updates on your experience with following Julie’s instructions with the tung oil? Did it darken the table at all or take away from the “rustic” appearance of this table? If you have any images please send to my email: rosemarie.william@hotmail.com
In order to protect the table and prevent stains, we put the natural “pure” Monocoat on the table and wiped off excess. The warm grey pinkish driftwood colour is gone. We had greyed out teak chairs to match. They now do not match. The table after the monocoat not only darkens the table considerably, but also leaves a yellowy undertone! If you look at the rag we used to wipe it- you see the yellow. All the sandy light elements of the table are replaced with a yellw brown tinge. We are now stuck with the table that does not fit with our Bahamian tropical setting. It’s for sale! Or I’ve got hours of sanding, then trying to bring back some acceptable colour with a whitewash driftwoody stain and probably tung oil. Just wish i knew. Hope this enlightens.
I haven’t heard one positive comment about Monocoat. Best wishes in restoring your table, Joanne. It’s truly unfortunate we have to protect new furniture at all!
We purchased a salvaged natural farmhouse table from restoration hardware (same wood as in this post just different table) and applied the same tung oil listed in this post (ordered from same site). We left the powder finish on and did one coat with flour sack towels – no paint thinner. Let dry for an hour or so and then some steel wool and a second coat. Let dry a few hours and then more steel wool.
The tung oil changes the look of the wood significantly. It darkens it a bunch and really raises the grain and darkens the grain.
I tested some matte poly and it would have kept the color way better but would have given it a plastic look a bit. Ultimately went with the tung oil from a recommendation of a flooring guy we happened to have over.
Just thought I’d let readers know what to be prepared for. Also I keep getting brown residue when I use a paper towel on it. Oh and it smells still 24 hours later.
My wife misses the old look but I think it still looks great – just a lot different than the original powder finish.
Travis, I realize this is an old thread but I was wondering how the tungoil has held up over time? Do you still feel like it’s changed the table from its original appearance? we are considering buying the same exact table and going the same route to protect it. I would love to see pictures of it if you have any – this table isn’t displayed in any showroom near us so we only have the RH website photos to go by! If you happen to see this and have pictures, please share to my email: rosemarie.william@hotmail.com
Hi Julie,
I am now entering your world. I purchased the boulangerie table in salvaged natural. Any chance you can post some more pictures of your new table with the tung oil? So sorry to be annoying! Also would love to hear how everyone elses experience has been with applying the tung oil. Please email me: jessica.b.levy@gmail.com
There will be more photos in 2 weeks, for now just within this post and comments. You’ll love your new table regardless of having to take an extra step to protect it.
Hi – I am planning to purchase the RH 1900s boulangerie table in the salvaged brown finish (not salvaged natural, which looks like the finish you have). Do you know if this is also a “powder” finish and should I also treat the table with tung oil?
I don’t believe it is a powdered finish – read previous user comments about the salvaged brown finish for further info as I don’t have any experience with it.
I’m slightly confused about which oil to use after reading the post and the comments.
Can you use ONLY the 100% TRUE Tung Oil? -OR-
Do you have to mix the 100% TRUE Tung Oil with paint thinner?
Did you stain the whole table or just the top? I have the matching sideboard and wonder if I should do that as well. Thoughts?
I have done both, but the second time we did not use the paint thinner and were really happy. Entire thing – in case of spills that drip to the legs.
Thanks, will get around to it this weekend.
I just ordered the 17th C. Monastery Rectangular Dining Table in Brown Acacia AND the 17th C. Monastery Round Dining Table in Black Acacia. After reading everyone’s comments, I’m EXTREMELY nervous that I’ve made a bad decision. We have 2 boys, the thought of our brand new expensive tables being ruined after the first meal makes me sick to my stomach.
Has anyone had any experience with these finishes? Should I go with the Tung Oil on both? Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you.
My understanding is that your table likely doesn’t have the powder finish and you shouldn’t have to worry about it. I do know that they will exchange it {if untouched, but used and damaged} from other readers.
That table is GORGEOUS! I saw online it say it is waxed so you would not be able to oil it. If you ever check back I would love to know how it turned out for you.
Oh wow! We just purchased the natural RH Trestle table. This is not great. I am worried too about the staining and had no idea I couldn’t wipe it with even water. Julie would you be able to tell me what I can do today? I read over everything and am a bit confused as to what is your final solution and how to apply it. I have contemplated having a sheet of glass cut to place of the top. That will ruin the natural beauty of having it exposed but would definitely protect. Thoughts? Also how much time does your process take? Thanks!
A couple hours in all – personally, I think the design of the table would be lost with glass and wouldn’t truly protect it as the edges and legs are just as vulnerable.
Thanks Julie! I will do the Tung oil. How big of a bottle will I need? And do you recommend 2 or 3 coats on top (I know you said 1 for the base)? Do I do steel wool in between each application of Tung oil or only once all coats have been applied? This has been so helpful! Thanks for your patience in answering so many questions!
An entire standard sized bottle…yep!
I don’t know if you will see this. We put glass on our table when we had young kids. Spills ran down the glass and seeped under the glass. Then the glass was glued down to the table, probably with cereal milk. It wasn’t a perfect solution. I would protect your table even if you put glass on it.
hmm…we are in the same situation as Kathleen…literally just purchased the SALVAGED WOOD TRESTLE RECTANGULAR in Salvaged Brown and wondering if made the right decision esp after reading all these comments/work that needed to go in to make it functional and for some an $$$ table is it worth it? I am not handy so scared of putting this Tung Oil on myself…is it really that easy?
We were also thinking that putting a glass top on it may help and make more practical for day to day, but take it not necessarily the solution? do you not recommend doing as takes away from the natural beauty of the table?
wondering if another table with a different “finish” from RH may be the way to go? Do any of you have experience/know anyone who did the17th C.
FRENCH BASTED with the textured finish and/or17th C. MONASTERY
with the acacia finishes?
and any feedback on the chairs on the Vintage French Chairs? thinking about the round back or flare one…
It’s so easy. Remember if you do glass that doesn’t protect the sides and base.
Thanks for your prompt responses Julie! 🙂 that would be true for any table though right? think worthwhile to do regardless esp w/ little kids? wondering if this table and finish is the way to go for our day to day needs as seems like needs to be sealed/addressed upon arrival otherwise risk damage? if leave as is, not really useable? any experience/have you heard anything about the other two tables i mentioned above as also contemplating those just really loved the look of the trestle?
I also just bought the salvaged brown. Did you do anything to protect your table? I’m so nervous to use it but also worried about the protectant as everything I have read is so mixed.
It’s a beautiful table! Your going to make so many memories around it as we have done around ours. Our daughter moved into her first new home and guess what she took the beautiful loved table with her. Now 6 weeks before her first child is born sits a high chair along with chairs of many years of our memories. I am so happy she wanted it now our love has gone with her to start her own memories!
That’s incredibly sweet! There’s no better place to make memories, is there? I’m sure she’ll treasure it for years to come. Thanks for sharing!
Hi Julie,
Great tips! One question though, I purchased a RH kitchen island in salvage black. Should I still use the paint thinner with the tung oil?
Thanks!
Richard
I wouldn’t – also, the black might not be a powder finish. It’s my understanding that their dark wood isn’t and this isn’t the best choice for those.
Hi Julie!
We just purchased our 100% tung oil per your suggestion and have purchased cheese cloth to apply. It looks as if for your second table you used other material. I was wondering if you could walk us through the exact application process. Pour onto cloth? Pour onto table? Still circular motion? One coat? Thin coat? How long do you spend in one area or is it a swift application?
ALso, please explain the steel wool process after.
Thank you! Please know I am sure this has been exhausting but we all appreciate your feedback and patience with our questions!
We’ve done both – we felt like we had slightly more control putting it onto the flour sack towels and wiping it on with the grain. We just did a few thin coats, wiping off excess and using steel wool to dull in between {as much as you want}, after allowing coats to dry. Honestly, you’re overthinking it 😉 I know it’s stressful, but you can’t go wrong.
Has the tung oil darkened your new table at all? Also, what level of steel wool did you use?-I saw that there are fine, medium, coarse, etc…
Did I read correcty that you were able to put the powder finish back on the previous table-If so, how did that work out?
Super fine…not much, more details within the post and comments. You can’t put the powder finish back on, we purchased a second table. We just retained the powder finish on that table and used tung oil and steel wool to protect it.
Thank you everyone for leaving your helpful comments! Julie, did you use the steel wool directly after applying the tung oil? How smelly was the tung oil? I’m looking forward to doing this on Friday when our RH Trestle Table arrives! Thank you so much!
It barely has an odor, and I am extremely sensitive to smells! We wait a couple hours before using steel wool. Enjoy!
We bought a used RH table and protected it with Rubio Monocoat. Looks like nothing is there but any spills bead right up. I love it.
Awesome!
Oops after re reading your post, I see you posted pics and re purchased the same color table. I ordered the same tung oil. Nice to hear that you only had to do the top of the table and that the color was not very altered. I am going to RH today to get a sample piece to practice.
We did the entire table the second time around, just in case there are spills that splatter on the base. However, we only did one coat for the base.
Julie, I have the natural color table with the powder finish still on and was going to apply the natural tongue oil. Is your second table the natural color or did you go with grey finish? I just want to make sure I will have good results with the natural color trestle table.
Hi Julie,
Your expertise might just save me my sanity (or what’s left of it!) today! I am 7 months pregnant with our first and we just moved into a new house from a tiny apartment meaning we needed to buy a ton of furniture. We ordered two reclaimed wood tables. One is the Martens coffee table in aged elm from RH. I am freaking out because I want to protect it (not only am I clumsy/messy, but I have a little boy on the way!) but I also don’t want to change the look of the table too much or be exposed to chemicals being pregnant. It looks like Tung Oil might be a safe option, but I’m wondering if I need the paint thinner as well. Do you have any advice? Thank you!
We didn’t use paint thinner the second time and love it! Congratulations on your growing family!
How did you end up protecting your coffee table? Have you been happy with it? I have two little ones and really want a RH wood coffee table but I am terrified! I don’t want to have to stress about kids setting their sippy cups down or a guest accidentally forgetting to use a coaster! Is that possible with a RH table?
Thanks!
Lori
I will try that. Now, if I end up sanding it down to a raw look, do you recommend finding a stain that I like and then using wax to seal?
Is there any way to achieve the look that the table came with?
I would use the Minwax stain from Home Depot, but use wax with caution – refer to reader’s comments before you try it. It looks natural, but doesn’t completely protect it.
Do you suggest the 100% tung oil over the Minwax stain for protection?
Yes, stain doesn’t protect, only colors the wood.
Julie
I have read the posts repeatedly to try and figure out what to do with my table and am asking if you could please clarify:
We put Rubio Monocoat oil (clear) on our RH table (salvaged wood-pine) about 4 months ago and I HATE IT!! so dark, amber tones, the whole 9…
Anyway, how do we go about removing this oil?
Then what do you recommend?
What if it removes the whole finish down to raw pine wood (hardware store look)?
Thanks in advance,
Nikki
That’s a difficult decision to make. You can use a wax to remove it, but to time consuming and gets in the divots and can be impossible to get out. If you sand it, you’ll lose the character of the wood. The natural actually is a powder finish on top of bare wood, so you wouldn’t achieve that with sanding.
I’d try to use steel wool first to dumb it down, followed by a wet cloth. If you don’t like that after a few rounds I’d use a light sandpaper.
I wish I had found this site. I just monocoated it yesterday and I hate it. How did you get it off?
So sad…
I haven’t monocoated, so unfortunately I’m not sure how you would remove. I just googled it and it’s an oil, so it penetrates the wood, which means sanding may be your only option. Unfortunately with that, you would remove the beautiful character of the boards. Try using steel wool {test underneath} first to see if that gives you a more desirable finish before you doing anything drastic.
Julie,
What exact steel and wax wool did you use to remove the monocoat oil? That’s what I need to do is first get that off before I do anything going forward..
0000 steel wool, super fine
Hi Julie,
We are thisclose to purchasing the RH 1900s Boulangerie table in the natural finish and while it is truly the table of our dreams, I cannot get on board with just letting it be and allowing stains to grow on it over time. My friend has the exact same table and she just lets it show wear and tear, but I’m way too Type A for that. So THANK YOU for posting this information and we are going to go with the 100% pure tung oil, white flour sacks, and steel wool to protect. BUT, we are not DIYers to say the least, so looking forward to seeing your instructions on applying the oil and until then, we’ll protect with a cheap vinyl tablecloth 🙂 I hope the process is as easy as using mineral oil on my cutting boards!
Side note, excited to start following your blog. Your photos, food, and design skills are absolutely beautiful.
Yes, it’s nearly just as easy. I don’t intend on sharing for a couple months, but it truly is as simple as that. Wipe on, rub off with steel wool to dull. Honestly, I’m Type A as well and worry you’ll regret not doing something first, because even the base of the table can have the finish washed off with a spill.
Thank you SO much, Maria! I know you’ll adore your table too!
Just a quick comment, 100% tung oil on the RH salvage grey DOES darken the color, or rather yellow it. Wouldn’t recommend. We’ve experimented on the extensions with a couple other things. Latest is Minwax satin poly. Less noticeable but still darkens. Keep in mind it’s matte, not flat so there is still a sheen.
We felt it only slightly darkened it IF you used steel wool. I’ll be sharing our new table soon as an example.
Phil – what did you end up going with? Just got my salvaged gray table delivered and have yet to decide what to use.
So happy to have found your site! Yes, I too would love to see your pics of your newly treated table. Along with Janet, I have a RH salvaged trestle table, and thought they sent the wrong color. My kids already put water stains on the top surface so I decided to wipe the whole top down. It did lighten it up and fortunately still looks good. Actually I didn’t know about the powder surface treatment that RH applied until after reading your blog. I thought it was just a dirty table. I think if you ever buy a 4th RH table we’d all like to see a video of your application of the tung oil. I’ve read from others that it takes a long time to dry and they still have that oil residue remaining. I live in CA and there’s a health warning with the tung oil product link. Are you experiencing this? I’ve looked at so many products but still not sure what to go with. (Minwax, Briwax, Swilley’s All Natural Wood Rub, 100% Tung oil)
I have not heard that, but I have added additional information to the process. It couldn’t be easier. It’s been used for hundreds of years.
Thanks for that. When you removed the original powder finish I suspected the table was raw pine. Is that correct or was there still finish on it?
I’d still be using tung oil and perhaps over a driftwood colour stain in hopes of achieving a similar look to the natural trestle table.
If you remove the powdered finish, it is raw pine. On the second table, we didn’t remove the powder before protecting.
Please post pics of the finished result on the new table, using 100% tung oil only. I have the dark brown salvaged wood trestle table and I’m considering stripping it to go to the natural finish look. Ugh…it will be painful for a few days but I’d love to see your results before I tackle this beast head on. Many thanks for sharing your experience. I’ll post mine if I go through with it.
I absolutely will, when I can. Our home is in complete construction chaos. The table I have has a powdered finish, so stripping the dark brown down wouldn’t yield the same result. Honestly, without their finish, it looks like pine from the hardware store. It could absolutely still be beautiful, I just thought I’d be candid so that you can make a thoughtful decision.
Hi Tammy,
We bought the dark brown salvage trestle table and treated with one coat of the 100% tung oil, after we tested it on an elm wood coffee table-natural color.
Although it worked fine on the natural color elm table, it ruined the dark brown salvage trestle table! Some of the dark brown stain came off and overall it looks blotchy. So, I wouldn’t recommend applying the tung oil. I have a feeling that this table had a wax coat on it. No we’ll need to try to bring it back to the original look…
Very interesting! So you it worked on the natural finish for you, but not the dark brown? I appreciate you clarifying so that I can bring it to the attention of other readers. Thanks!
Hi Julie,
Yes, it worked on the Martens coffee table-elm natural wood.
However the dark brown salve trestle table from RH was ruined by the 100% tung oil. I took a few photos, but I’m not sure how can I post them here.
I will try the 0000 steel wood within a few days ( some areas appear not cured yet) and hopefully that will bring a uniform finish.
Thanks, Denisa! The steel wool does a great job dulling the finish.
Thank you Julie for this info. I’m on my 3rd Restoration Hardware Table. I fell in love with the color in the catalogue & purchased dining room chairs to go with the table. The table came first and I was very disappointed with the color. Thinking they sent the wrong color, I had them exchange the table. Come to find out, they put a coat on top of the table which changes the appearance. I wiped the top coat off which lightened it a bit & decided to keep the table. My chairs arrived about 2 months later and they work fine together. I was just about to order the Monocoat so I can actually use the table rather than treat my dining room as a museum. Can you tell me why you decided to go with the Tung Oil rather than the Monocoat?
Honestly, I can’t recall why we ruled it out, but I believe there are others who have tried it and left comments, so you may want to read through them before you proceed. In the long run, you’ll love your table!
How are you wiping the powdered coat off? Damp rag? Cleaner?
On the first table we used a damp rag to remove it, on the second we left it and coated over it.
Hi, anyone have advice on the salvaged Grey table? Would Tung darken it too much? Any other suggestions?
Read through both of my posts and the comments. 100% true tung oil doesn’t darken it.
Just purchased this table but it hasn’t arrived yet… So nervous after reading all of this. I really wanted a maintenance free farm table for family and children to gather for years to come! Julie- can’t wait to see photos of your “second” table you recently purchased. Did you wipe off the powdery coat before applying 100% tung oil? Has it prevented stains and watermarks? Thank you so much for any advice on how to protect and maintain color!
We didn’t and we’ve been using it for a month now without any issues! It’s PERFECT!
Forgot to add I also tried a non-toxic poly by Ecos paint–performed just like the Miniwax. Poly offers the most protection with the least amount of color change but I couldn’t handle the crunchy feeling of the wood and couldn’t sand the wood or it would have removed the powder finish.
Ok, I tried Miss Mustard Seed’s Furniture Wax and IT DID NOT CHANGE THE COLOR OF THE TABLE!! 🙂 HOWEVER, it doesn’t seem to add any protection to the finish lol. I just applied a second coat so we shall see but as of right now it seems pointless as a protective finish. I wish I could attach pictures here! I may have to do my own blog post.
This is what I have tried on my BOULANGERIE table.
I only did one coat of everything I tried. I applied everything with a smooth cotton rag except for Poly which required a brush.
Minwax Polycrylic in clear—
darkens table, shows scratches easily without a way to repair them apart from sanding and reapplying poly.
feels crunchy to the touch due to rough nature of the wood.
protects from spills and food stains.
totally toxic and stinky. requires mask when applying.
Rubio Monocoat oil in clear–
darkens table dramatically and adds an amber tone.
scratches easily but can be rubbed out to make less noticeable.
protects from spills and food stains.
slight nutty odor that goes away with time.
Pure Tung Oil from Real Milk Co.–
darkens table dramatically and adds slight slight red tone. lightens up ever so so slightly (most people wouldn’t even notice) several weeks after it dries.
scratches easily but can be rubbed out and reapplied.
protects from spills and food stains.
takes longer to dry than rubio monocoat.
stronger odor that gave me a headache.
apparently tung oil, while natural, contains natural VOCs that might bother some people.
Ruelle’s Beeswax/Oil based wax–
darkens table dramatically, looks similar to rubio and tung.
scratches easily but can be reapplied.
completely natural and food safe.
no odor. feels super yummy and moisturizing.table feels soft too.
protects from spills and food stains.
Miss Mustard Seed Furniture Wax–
does not change the color of the table at all once dry.
wax will get in holes and crevices and that dries white if not rubbed out.
very pleasant odor. hard to wash off hands.
apparently offers minimal to no liquid protection. the water seems to eat right through the wax and it leaves a mark. reapplying wax seems to help with the marks. ketchup wiped off without leaving a stain/mark.
If you don’t care about the color change Ruelle’s is the winner in my opinion since it’s 100% safe and non toxic.
UPDATE to this info.
Rubio Monocoat- amber tone has remained.
Ruelles wax/oil–very amber/green tone has come through–DO NOT RECOMMEND!
Tung oil–darkness has lightened and the color is very similar to the original table.
Miss Mustard Seed Wax–doesn’t change color but offers ZERO in the way of protection-DO NOT RECOMMEND!
Hello! We just got the 1900s Boulangerie table and are considering Tung oil. Did you take the powder coat off prior to using the Tung oil?
I did not, I tried to “preserve” it.
Julie,
I have the same table and for the past year have had a hideous cloth resting over it because of fear of staining it from water and what have you.
Had you looked into the General Finishes Seal-A-Cell Clear sealant? I don’t want a finish for the table just a sealant and this claims to not alter the color of natural wood.
Here is a link:
http://www.woodcraft.com/product/85E91/WoodRiver%20Pure%20Tung%20Oil%20Pint.aspx
Thank you for blogging about this. Very helpful.
Michael
I have not, but Woodcraft is the brand of Tung Oil I used. We actually just started fresh with a new table, didn’t wipe the finish off and it was extremely successful. You can always test an area underneath the table or a leaf!
Julie,
You bought another RH table?
Michael
Ha! I did!
Did you use 100% tung oil with no paint thinner on your new table, or did you mix it like you did previously. And THANK you for this post I know it has saved me many hours of stress!
The recently did it without using paint thinner and we loved the results. Photos coming soon!
Hi Julie!
Do you have pictures of your new table with just the tung oil and no paint thinner? I would be interested to hear and see the results. Our table just arrived and we have two boys under the age of two. What was I thinking?!? Haha. Thank you. Lastly, what did you do with the edges/sides of the table? Are they also treated? lastly, just so I understand, you use a paintbrush(?) and paint on the oil and then have someone follow behind wiping it down with a cloth? What type of cloth? Specifics here would be extremely helpful. We plan to do this this week!
I don’t yet, but we LOVE it! We didn’t do underneath, but the entire base and top have been treated. I use flour sack cloths {any white cloth will do} to both apply and remove the excess. You can purchase them at Target or Walmart for $4/pack.
It’s next on my list of things to try. I tried the Monocoat, tried the pure tung, tried poly and now am waiting for my beeswax to arrive. I will let you know!
How did the bees wax work?
Has anyone used wax only? What did you think? I receive a lot of emails about this post and want to help others achieve their perfect finish!
We have been directed by RH to use Briwax on our table. Their product site recommends using it in liquid form with a brush and use sparingly – it will remove water marks too!
I ordered a sample of pure tung oil from The Real Milk Paint. Co since they had a smaller/cheaper size. It, of course, darkens the table and changes the color, but it doesn’t seem to darken as much or add the amber tone like the Monocoat Oil (linseed) does. I have also since learned that linseed oil can continue to darken and amber over time–no thanks!
I applied the tung oil without paint thinner and I think my particular table (1900s Boulangerie) is so dry that it just soaked it right up without any problems. I may try a matte varnish before I make my final decision but I really prefer keeping things as non toxic as possible.
My question is how long did you let the tung oil dry before you started using the table? I’m reading it takes a very long time to cure and harden (which is fine).
We just waited a day.
It took a couple days but I kept wiping down the table and it got much lighter, I guess the it did got darker than I realized with the tung oil and paint thinner. I think I used way too much paint thinner and that was the problem. Yesterday I reapplied the tung oil and just a little paint thinner and it looks really good. I am happy with the look, but I will NOT do anything else to this table. It’s taken too much time and worry. If I get stains on it…too bad! It’s our everyday table in our kitchen. I do think they have a design flaw with the 72 in table which is what I purchased, when you sit on the ends of the table without the leaves (which I will only put in when we have lots of company, I don’t have room to keep them in) your knees hit the petistal. My husband is always complaining his knees hit the petistal and you can’t get up close to the table. You would think for the money it cost someone would have figured this out. There wasn’t one in that size in their store for me to try, but I’m not sure I would even think of that. Still I love the look of the table,
You won’t need to touch the table again. We have had both water & milk sit on it overnight & it wiped clean. You did it! You’re done! Now you can relax & enjoy it. I’m glad you’re happy with the finish. Have a great week, Linda!
Hi Julie,
Could I ask, with your 84″ unextended, whether any adult can realistically sit at the ends of your table because their knees hit the trestle? You cannot with the 60″ and 72″ wihout extending, as Linda noted in her post. Wondering if the breadboard pieces of the table are longer on the 84″ even without the extensions. Just called RH and they couldn’t tell me ???? I realize you’ve opened the floodgates with this post – sorry to join the chorus!
Yes, I often sit there because my girls don’t like to be at the head of the table. Enjoy!
Hello,
We purchased the same table and it was just delivered to our new home, if you had to start over from scratch (with the original powdery finish) would you use the Tung Oil again, the matte varnish or the Briwax they recommend using?
We are really torn because we don’t want to alter the color!
Thank you
I absolutely wood, but read prior comments.
Thank you for your answer, because we are starting from scratch should we remove the powdery finish before applying the Tung oil? Or should we leave it as is and apply the oil over it?
Yes, & I recommend that in previous comments & another reader shared how it worked for her. I *think* you can do it with or without the powdered finish. Test underneath & see what you like.
I applied the tung oil and it didn’t change the color much and I am happy with the look however I just wiped the table down (after about 36 hours to dry) with a damp cloth and brown stuff keeps coming up, I have rinsed out the cloth many times and keep getting brown like dirt off the table. I’m afraid people will get their clothes stained when they eat off the table. I did use more paint thinner than you did, the directions said 1 to 1, but I did maybe 2\3 100% tung oil to 1/3 paint thinner. Mine has no sheen at all, which I like. Did you have this experience when you did your table with the brown substance? Thanks again!
A little, but not much & it was only the first day or two. I’d love to see a photo! I would start using a cleaner (I’m obsessed with Mrs. Meyers) and a paper towel. I think it will dissipate in just one or two wipe downs.
It’s the campaign desk–it says it’s made of acacia wood but it doesn’t mention solid or veneer…
That’s probably the powder finish coming off? Interesting that so much is coming off. I wonder if that has to do with the paint thinner because the part of my table (underside) I used monocoat oil on (linseed oil) wipes clean with nothing coming off. I would love to see a pic too and hear any updates! 🙂
It’s definitely the amount of thinner, but should still wipe clean eventually.
Linda, do you mind emailing me? I have a couple questions for you! Thank you julieblanner{at}me{dot}com
Linda – how long did it take for your brown residue to stop coming off? We are having the same issue a week later. Did you end up using any cleaner?
Thank you! I ordered the tung oil and will give that a try next. I have a feeling I’m not going to like anything though. I don’t even like the look of it when it’s wet. It just changes the color so much for this particular finish. I have a desk from World market that is a similar color as the table is now, if World Market can get the look, I don’t understand why RH just can’t stain and poly so we don’t have to.
I wish there was a way to retain the finish completely unaltered, but unfortunately it will change slightly. You can see exactly what it looks like (up close) in my most recent posts. Is your World Market piece wood or veneer?
Thank you so much your quick reply. I did find 100% the tung oil and ready to start the process. One more question, did you put just one coat on the table?
Thanks!
I did – I felt like it was enough. Allow it to dry & see what you think before you apply a second. You can always apply more later, that’s the beauty of it!
I just recieved my RH table Tuesday, but didn’t read the reviews until it was on it’s way, I’ve been panicking over what to do. We have 7 grandchildren (5 are little boys!) and I don’t want a table I have to fuss over. I called 3 RH stores and everyone gave me a different answer as what to do. One said embrace the stains, that’s the beauty of the table, not sure I agree. Thanks so much for your information, I have read so many opinions on this table and yours has been the most helpful. I am going to seal ours with tung oil, but you did say it doesn’t change the color, correct? Thank you for all the information, I feel a little calmer now 🙂 I’m hosting Easter for 30 so now I have to get busy and seal my table! Just found your blog and I love it!
Only ever so slightly-if you use true 100% tung oil. Many are a solution combined with additives. I love our table 10x over & even after the headache, would do it again! Earlier this week we forgot a sippy cup on the table to find it had overflowed overnight. We simply wiped the table down with absolutely no damage! The water didn’t penetrate the wood at all, let alone leave a ring. Enjoy the memories you’ll make at your new table, Linda! Happy Easter!
Hi Julie,
Bless you for this post! I recently purchased the 1900s Boulangerie table in salvaged natural and oh that darn powder finish! It’s so pretty but I know it won’t last if it’s not protected. Most people online have used Monocoat Oil but I purchased a sample and used it on the underside of the table and it turns it much much darker and brings out amber tones that I don’t care for. I am considering scrubbing the powder off to see if that will help with the darkness, but I know it won’t help with the amber. I am also considering sanding the powder finish completely off and then staining it and sealing it. It seems as thought that is the process you chose? The color of your table looks great, very similar to the salvaged natural and not amber at all. I just wanted to verify and see if you sanded, restained with the whole table with the miniwax driftwood and then applied the tung oil?
If I were you, I’d wipe the powder finish off & do tung oil. Unfortunately, we started with the monocoat & despised how dark it was & lightly sanded the main area of the table {not the leaves}. I would avoid sanding at all costs because the beautiful grain can be lost. I’m sorry you’re experiencing the same issue! Best wishes.
Thanks so much for posting all this information on the RH table. I was about to purchase it but was hesitant because I have 3 young kids and was worried about the stains and maintenance. This post was incredibly helpful.
Thanks Michelle! If you protected as soon as it arrives you’ll be fine and never have to touch it again.
Hi there!
I’m madly in love with my BALUSTRADE SALVAGED WOOD SQUARE COFFEE TABLE from RH with the natural finish and am distraught about letting it go. Of course, we immediately spilled a few droplets of water and it left a stain that was much lighter than the natural finish. We then had to wipe the whole finish off to give it the same color. I was so glad to find your blog post and was hoping you could explain your directions a bit further.
You stated that “It’s not supposed to alter the color of the wood. However, the first coat must be used with a combination of paint thinner, which does. It released red tones in the wood we finished. A week later & I found it less noticeable.It has a matte finish. It can have a slightly more matte appearance with A LOT of steel wool & willpower.”
Do you think you could explain that further? I see that you mixed the paint thinner with the tung oil. How much of each did you use? Did you use a paint brush or did a cloth? What if I did not use the paint thinner? Also, how did you go about removing the tung oil? A steel wool from a hardware store?
We’re wondering whether we should just leave it as is or get it replaced with the same table and then put the tung oil on the finish already on the table.
I hope you can help and look forward to your reply!
I’m EXTREMELY happy with how the tung oil is holding up. I no longer notice red tones. I don’t know what would happen if you didn’t apply it with paint thinner, but we did, by brushing it on. We used cloths to wipe everything off & steel wool from the hardware store to remove the appearance. It’s now 95% matte & I could probably work harder to give it it’s original appearance if I had any energy left in me. Best wishes!
Hi Julie, I just bought the same table before reading your post. Thank you for posting your experience! I noticed a stain on the top before we sat down to eat our first dinner. I was annoyed. As we started to eat, a little spill happened and we wiped it, but you can imagine what happened next! Needless to say, RH is going to send a replacement. I am going to immediately protect the next one. Can you provide step by step instructions on how you used the Tung oil? Also, how much thinner vs oil did you use? I am not a do it yourself girl – so this makes me nervous and I don’t want to mess it up! thank you!!!
Not much thinner & the tung oil couldn’t be easier. Put it on & wipe it off immediately, ensuring you’re removing from cracks as well & allow to dry! It is really simple!
you make it sounds too easy! thanks and fingers crossed!
this is exactly the same situation we are in..going down all the comments as we speak, but so far finding all very helpful – thank you all for sharing your experiences! with all being said would you still recommend purchasing this table and/or finish or think better/less stress to go with another finish assuming any of the other RH finishes don’t have the same problem?
I’m still happy with it, personally. It’s not quite the dusty look that I initially loved, but everyone that comes over raves about how beautiful it is and it’s still more beautiful than anything else I’ve found.
Thank you for sharing your experience. I have been searching high and low for the perfect farmhouse/reclaimed style dining table for our home. My husband and I have opposing expectations and style choices, which leave me very limited. I was considering a RH Baluster dining table which I surprisingly found on sale today, however I am seriously reconsidering after reading about your experience.
Thank you!
When we visited the Outlet last weekend we noticed a coffee table with two glass rings on it that was returned for obvious reasons. I would do the table over again – IF I knew ahead of time that I would need to protect it & protected it before use.
Tung oil darkened the finish, so I removed it as much as possible, and then used a white wax on the table. It looks better, but I have to refinish it frequently.
I did make an improvement – the double end leaves made the table too large, so I re drilled the holes underneath the table and removed one of the double slabs on each leaf. Now I can add a single extension on each end, or just pull them out and add back the double leaves. Much more versatile in terms of length.
Unfortunately most tung oil available in hardware store isn’t 100% pure tung oil and will darken the finish. Your leaf adaptation sounds brilliant!
I am really interested in knowing how the table extensions were adjusted. I purchased this exact table in the dark brown finish and it is a little shorter than I would have liked but I live in condo with small elevator so..it is what it is..the extensions make it too long for everyday. So two questions, how can I adjust the extensions and one can I use Tung oil on the darker finish to protect from water stains?
You can definitely use Tung Oil on any of the finishes.
We purchased the table a few weeks ago and were initially very concerned about how we would protect the table. After a trip to a local wood working shop I got some great advise on protective finishes. I used a water based finish from General Finishes in a flat finish. I put 5 coats on top and 2/3 everywhere else. I then put two coats of wax on top. The first bush is perfect and it did not change the color of the wood at all. We are very happy with how it looks. Best of luck everyone!
If you can send photos, I’ll add them for others to see. Thanks!
Hi David — would love to know exactly what you used — as we just bought a 72in round — and need a solution.
Just wondering if you ever received any feedback regarding this protection option? After taking a couple of hours to read over all of your experience and the other suggestions offered, it seems to me the 100% tung oil and the Modern Masters Dead Flat Varnish seem to be the 2 best options. The General Finishes flat finish is a product I discovered last week so I had been curious if there was any response to your request for a follow up picture? We are probably going to order our table in the next 2-3 weeks and I am so thankful to have found this information to help overcome my only major concern. I LOVE the Trustle Table and can not wait to get it! Would you recommend ordering the 6 x 6 sample piece of wood prior to ordering the table? It sounds like the experience found here is as good as getting the sample AND…if I want to experiment with the options I am considering, I can always use the underside of the extensions??? Thanks for your help!
do you mind my asking if taking apart the extensions was a big undertaking? how did you remove one of the double slabs on each leaf? looking at how to do this too.
thank you!
How did you remove the Tung oil. I think I’ve ruined our table with the Monocoat. I read so handy good reviews and the pictures I saw looked great. It’s too dark, my wife is so upset. How do I restore this table back to what we bought?
Did you ever find a way to remove the monocoat??? I have been sick over what we did to our trestle table for 2 years….
Hi Cathy, I would love to adjust the double leaf extension. Please explain how you removed one of the double slabs. My 72 in is too short without the extensions and with them too long. Thought about purchasing the 84 in and using without the extensions.
Are the dining chairs from RH too? If so I’ve been thinking about buying them for a while… Any complaints?
Some of them are & others are antiques. I purchased the chairs at the outlet & they’re great! I’d love to add the cushions to make them slightly more comfortable, but it’s not practical for everyday dining with 3 kids!
Wow. I just found this post through dwelling gawker and can’t believe it! That is my exact dream table- it’s been pinned, mood-boarded, and drooled over for years, but of course at that pricetag it’s stayed soundly on the “someday” list. I’ve often wondered if I would regret a piece that looks like it will require a lot of care and fuss. We bought a Restoration sofa years ago and I feel the same way about it- you constantly have to fluff it for it to look nice, you can’t wash the fabric, and it’s been relegated to a sad unused corner of the house. I completely adore the store (which I affectionately call “Resto”) but I think you just helped me finally let my obsession with this table go. I will live vicariously and enjoy the pictures of it on your blog instead!! Thank you for posting this!
Thanks for the smile, Laura! I love our Restoration sofas, but they look sad when not fluffed. I’m still happy that our table isn’t veneer like so many others on the market, but the beautiful finish they sell is showroom-only material! Welcome to my blog…I hope you enjoy it! Happy Holidays!
I love my RH table but have come to a very real acceptance that I am choosing for it to be that raw, unfinished, unperfect look. I spilled a drop of water on the table and it has left a spot. I’m ok with it, I just have to be.
However, to prevent damage I did purchase a clear tablecloth from JoAnn fabrics (rather my Mom did for me). So for Thanksgiving I placed it on the table and covered it with a nice tablecloth and you never knew it was under there. It’s well worth getting especially if you’re having any friends or family over. We don’t have kids so on a day-to-day basis we just have either a runner or placemats decorating the table.
I agree, if you want a table that will remain perfect for years to come, an RH table is probably not the best bet.
Great idea! I worried with our family it would look like a picnic table in the end. Honestly, I could handle raw better than a powder finish & would have accepted it easier if it had been disclosed. I’m glad you love your table – it’s so beautiful!
I tried the clear furniture wax, and it dried WHITE in the nooks and crannies of RH table. I got frustrated and a little disgusted by the white chunks and applied butcher block oil (Boos brand). The table is a few shades darker after the oil, but I bought it for the shape more than the light, matte finish. Thankfully, I haven’t had much in the way of spills yet, but the table doesn’t feel as dry and “thirsty” as it did before.
That’s great information, Catherine! Yes, the nooks & crannies of the table are beautiful, but fill easily! We worked hard to try to keep the tung oil out of them so that they didn’t fill, but were not 100% successful. I love Boos butcher block oil – great idea!
Hi!
What about for outdoor tables? Can I still use a tung oil to seal it? What finish would you recommend for an outdoor dining table but still keep the dull rustic look ? And would not alter the color.
Thanks!
Absolutely! I used Tung oil on our table for our outdoor dining room!
CJ– what did you use to remove the wax? I’m regretting applying it since it leaves white marks whenever water gets on it.
We used a wax to remove the previous oil we put on it and were able to remove it with steel wool.
Julie, I have a black RH table. What’s the best way to clean this? Thank you.
Unfortunately I don’t have any experience woth that finish. Sorry!
Hello there,
I have a RH reclaimed wood table, in raw untreated wood. Right now I have it covered by a plastic, double sided tapped to the bottom. So it looks ok, I guess! ( I hope lol ). The table is safe, I just feel like I am not making the best use of this beautiful table! But I’m almost scared to touch the darn thing! Lol
I also have a 5 year old boy that is not allowed anywhere near the table… 🙁
Help!!!!!