How to protect a Restoration Hardware Dining Table, Coffee Table or Desk. Learn about all the options and what we ultimately went with and love 4 years later!
I haven’t written about our Restoration Hardware Dining Table since shortly after we received it because I allowed it to paralyze me. You can read more about our experience here.
The stress, disappointment, frustration and overwhelm was just too much. Instead, our family of 5 sat at an antique table, intended to be my kitchen desk. It was tight. Our legs didn’t even fit underneath it. We just “closed off” the sunroom and pretended that it, along with the table didn’t exist.
When we purchased a Restoration Hardware dining table with a natural finish we envisioned it weathering over time. A rustic farmhouse table that would only become prettier over time.
The reality was the first time we wiped the table down after dinner with a damp cloth, we removed the finish. You can imagine the horror! We quickly realized the “natural” finish is a beautiful powder that is not practical. That soft, dusty look is unachievable in a maintainable form.
Underneath the powder the reclaimed wood table merely looked like wood purchased from your local hardware store.
We poured over the options time and time again, and realized that the perfect Restoration Hardware table just doesn’t exist. Fortunately, there are several options to protect your Restoration Hardware Dining table. However, whatever product you use, will alter the finish.
We have purchased several pieces of Restoration Hardware’s natural finish including a dresser, chest of drawers and two dining room tables. We’ve had a lot of experience using the furniture over the last 4 years and most importantly, protecting it.
We made a lot of mistakes on our first Restoration Hardware dining table, but fortunately, you don’t have to! Today I’m sharing both how to protect and repair.
Natural Finish
Restoration Hardware’s website notes on the description for the reclaimed wood table care recommendations.
“For dining tables, use of tablecloths, placemats and coasters is recommended to prevent staining. “Clear furniture wax can be applied to protect the finish from minor spills. Use coasters or placemats to help prevent marks or stains” and to “Wipe the table clean with a soft, dry cloth after each use.”
Their site also says “Care: Wipe using a damp cloth with mild soap and water, followed by a dry cloth. Wipe spills up immediately with a dry cloth.” However, that conflicts with their detailed care instructions. I, along with many of you found that a damp cloth takes the finish right off.
Products Available to Protect Your Restoration Hardware Dining Table
- Wax
- Modern Masters Dead Flat
- Pure Tung Oil
- Polyurethane
The Pros and Cons of Each Finish
Wax
Pros:
- Recommended by Restoration Hardware
- Very little alteration to the table
- Minimal sheen
- Easy to apply
Cons:
- Minimal protection
- Minimally water resistant
- Removes with solvent
- Requires reapplication
- Heat leaves rings
Best Use: Limited wear pieces like the Restoration Hardware Coffee Table, Side Table or Dressers
Modern Masters Dead Flat
Pros:
- Minimal sheen
- Very little alteration to the table
- Easy to apply
Cons:
- Minimal protection (markers, etc don’t wipe off)
- Minimally water resistant
Best Use: Limited wear pieces like the Restoration Hardware Coffee Table, Side Table or Dressers
You can purchase Modern Masters Dead Flat Varnish here.
Paula graciously sent a photo of her table sealed with this finish. We used it on our kitchen island you can learn more about it here and the protection it provides. 11/11/16
Pure Tung Oil
Pros:
- Waterproof
- Marker, glue, etc wipe clean
- No need to reapply
Cons:
- Alters color
- Minimal alternation to sheen with proper application (use of steel wool)
- Slightly more difficult to apply
Best Use: High wear pieces like the Restoration Hardware Dining Table
You can purchase Pure Tung Oil here.
See below for more details and a step by step tutorial.
Polyurethane
Pros:
- Easy to apply
Cons:
- Even the matte finish has a sheen
- Not waterproof
- Doesn’t stand up to abrasion
I wish I was writing this with the perfect solution for you today, but it’s a decision each individual has to weigh. Instead, I’m sharing what we chose to do and how we’re moving forward.
How to Protect Your Restoration Hardware Dining Table
- If you recall, we immediately panicked. My first piece of advice is DON’T PANIC! Nothing good will come of it!
- If you plan to do anything with it, determine if you need to wipe the finish off first (if you’ve damaged it) or just go over the powder finish. The powder finish easily wipes off with a damp cloth. Below are pictures depicting the wood without the finish Restoration Hardware applies. Reader Lei said she used “coffee grounds and rubbed it into the spot where it had lightened”which made the omission of powder negligible. Keep reading for more details and a step by step tutorial.
- Use TRUE Tung Oil. There’s a difference – Tung Oil Finish is not 100% Tung Oil. I’m listing the pros and cons based on my understanding and experience:
- It’s not supposed to alter the color of the wood. However, the first coat must be used with a combination of paint thinner, which alters the finish. It released red tones in the wood we finished. A week later I found it less noticeable.
- It has a matte finish. It can have a slightly more matte appearance with A LOT of steel wool and willpower.
- It protects the wood from stains. It fills the pores, which seals the wood & allows it to easily wipe clean.
- It’s durable. After using it for a few years it has withstood oils, crayon, etc have wiped without staining.
You can see the sheen from the tung oil in the picture below:
* The Tung Oil Finish I used on our harvest table provides a decent amount of protection, but not as wipeable as what we needed for everyday use. You can read more about the first Tung Oil Finish we used on this table here.
What Stain Color Best Matches Restoration Hardware’s Natural Finish?
If you have to stain your wood or are building your own farmhouse table, Minwax Driftwood came the closest to the natural finish of the Restoration Hardware Dining Table. It seeps into the pores of the wood, so the quicker you wipe it off to remove it, the less color that will be applied, however, it gets pretty dark in the grooves.
Here are some examples on various boards. I applied it and Chris followed behind wiping it off. These images are before the tung oil was applied.
Redefine expectations.
In the end, it’s not perfect, but it’s functional and looks nice. If you have experienced a similar situation, know that you will make peace with it, eventually! I have learned so much from this table. One of the most important lessons is that sometimes we need to redefine our expectations.
It’s just a table.
Through all of your comments and emails, I learned that I am not alone. More importantly, I remembered that it’s just a table. Despite wasted time, money and energy, it’s still just a table. It’s a farmhouse table where I can share breakfast, lunch and dinner with my family. It’s a table I can (and have) shared laughs, wine and tears. It’s a table where I can invite friends and family to get together and share the story of those laughs, wine and tears.
It’s the reclaimed wood table that brought us together to help each other. If you have an experience with your table and can offer additional help to others, please leave a comment below. If this post can save someone even a few of the hours and frustration we put into our table, it’s worth it.
How to Protect a Restoration Hardware Table with Tung Oil
In July of 2015, we purchased a new Restoration Hardware dining table. We wanted to start fresh and fortunately were able to recoop most of the expense we had invested in our previous farmhouse table.
We purchased this table with intention. This time we knew the powder finish would wipe off, so we took steps to protect it prior to use.
Supplies:
Pure Tung Oil
Flour Sack Towels
- Apply Tung Oil with on with white flour sack towels.
- Have a second person follow behind to remove any excess.
- Use steel wool to dull the finish.
- Repeat.
The more muscle you put into using the steel wool the more natural your finish will be.
This method can be used with any farmhouse table or reclaimed wood table. Below are a couple of snapshots of the final result of our reclaimed wood table protected with tung oil.
Update April 2019
Nearly 5 years later I still receive a lot of questions about our Restoration Hardware dining table. The tung oil has held up incredibly well. To date, we have not reapplied and don’t see a need to do so. The finish has continued to fade over time offering a softer, more natural aesthetic. All glue, marker and even candle wax have been removed effortlessly!
I hope this post has helped you make a decision you’re comfortable with to protect your farmhouse table. Please use comments below (rather than emailing) so that your questions and comments help others, too!
How to Protect a Restoration Hardware Table with Tung Oil
Equipment
- Flour Sack Towels
- Steel Wool
Ingredients
- Pure Tung Oil
Instructions
- Apply Tung Oil with white flour sack towels to the tables.
- Have a second person follow behind to remove any excess.
- Use steel wool to dull the finish.
- Repeat
Ok, I tried Miss Mustard Seed’s Furniture Wax and IT DID NOT CHANGE THE COLOR OF THE TABLE!! 🙂 HOWEVER, it doesn’t seem to add any protection to the finish lol. I just applied a second coat so we shall see but as of right now it seems pointless as a protective finish. I wish I could attach pictures here! I may have to do my own blog post.
This is what I have tried on my BOULANGERIE table.
I only did one coat of everything I tried. I applied everything with a smooth cotton rag except for Poly which required a brush.
Minwax Polycrylic in clear—
darkens table, shows scratches easily without a way to repair them apart from sanding and reapplying poly.
feels crunchy to the touch due to rough nature of the wood.
protects from spills and food stains.
totally toxic and stinky. requires mask when applying.
Rubio Monocoat oil in clear–
darkens table dramatically and adds an amber tone.
scratches easily but can be rubbed out to make less noticeable.
protects from spills and food stains.
slight nutty odor that goes away with time.
Pure Tung Oil from Real Milk Co.–
darkens table dramatically and adds slight slight red tone. lightens up ever so so slightly (most people wouldn’t even notice) several weeks after it dries.
scratches easily but can be rubbed out and reapplied.
protects from spills and food stains.
takes longer to dry than rubio monocoat.
stronger odor that gave me a headache.
apparently tung oil, while natural, contains natural VOCs that might bother some people.
Ruelle’s Beeswax/Oil based wax–
darkens table dramatically, looks similar to rubio and tung.
scratches easily but can be reapplied.
completely natural and food safe.
no odor. feels super yummy and moisturizing.table feels soft too.
protects from spills and food stains.
Miss Mustard Seed Furniture Wax–
does not change the color of the table at all once dry.
wax will get in holes and crevices and that dries white if not rubbed out.
very pleasant odor. hard to wash off hands.
apparently offers minimal to no liquid protection. the water seems to eat right through the wax and it leaves a mark. reapplying wax seems to help with the marks. ketchup wiped off without leaving a stain/mark.
If you don’t care about the color change Ruelle’s is the winner in my opinion since it’s 100% safe and non toxic.
UPDATE to this info.
Rubio Monocoat- amber tone has remained.
Ruelles wax/oil–very amber/green tone has come through–DO NOT RECOMMEND!
Tung oil–darkness has lightened and the color is very similar to the original table.
Miss Mustard Seed Wax–doesn’t change color but offers ZERO in the way of protection-DO NOT RECOMMEND!
Hello! We just got the 1900s Boulangerie table and are considering Tung oil. Did you take the powder coat off prior to using the Tung oil?
I did not, I tried to “preserve” it.
Julie,
I have the same table and for the past year have had a hideous cloth resting over it because of fear of staining it from water and what have you.
Had you looked into the General Finishes Seal-A-Cell Clear sealant? I don’t want a finish for the table just a sealant and this claims to not alter the color of natural wood.
Here is a link:
http://www.woodcraft.com/product/85E91/WoodRiver%20Pure%20Tung%20Oil%20Pint.aspx
Thank you for blogging about this. Very helpful.
Michael
I have not, but Woodcraft is the brand of Tung Oil I used. We actually just started fresh with a new table, didn’t wipe the finish off and it was extremely successful. You can always test an area underneath the table or a leaf!
Julie,
You bought another RH table?
Michael
Ha! I did!
Did you use 100% tung oil with no paint thinner on your new table, or did you mix it like you did previously. And THANK you for this post I know it has saved me many hours of stress!
The recently did it without using paint thinner and we loved the results. Photos coming soon!
Hi Julie!
Do you have pictures of your new table with just the tung oil and no paint thinner? I would be interested to hear and see the results. Our table just arrived and we have two boys under the age of two. What was I thinking?!? Haha. Thank you. Lastly, what did you do with the edges/sides of the table? Are they also treated? lastly, just so I understand, you use a paintbrush(?) and paint on the oil and then have someone follow behind wiping it down with a cloth? What type of cloth? Specifics here would be extremely helpful. We plan to do this this week!
I don’t yet, but we LOVE it! We didn’t do underneath, but the entire base and top have been treated. I use flour sack cloths {any white cloth will do} to both apply and remove the excess. You can purchase them at Target or Walmart for $4/pack.
It’s next on my list of things to try. I tried the Monocoat, tried the pure tung, tried poly and now am waiting for my beeswax to arrive. I will let you know!
How did the bees wax work?
Has anyone used wax only? What did you think? I receive a lot of emails about this post and want to help others achieve their perfect finish!
We have been directed by RH to use Briwax on our table. Their product site recommends using it in liquid form with a brush and use sparingly – it will remove water marks too!
I ordered a sample of pure tung oil from The Real Milk Paint. Co since they had a smaller/cheaper size. It, of course, darkens the table and changes the color, but it doesn’t seem to darken as much or add the amber tone like the Monocoat Oil (linseed) does. I have also since learned that linseed oil can continue to darken and amber over time–no thanks!
I applied the tung oil without paint thinner and I think my particular table (1900s Boulangerie) is so dry that it just soaked it right up without any problems. I may try a matte varnish before I make my final decision but I really prefer keeping things as non toxic as possible.
My question is how long did you let the tung oil dry before you started using the table? I’m reading it takes a very long time to cure and harden (which is fine).
We just waited a day.
It took a couple days but I kept wiping down the table and it got much lighter, I guess the it did got darker than I realized with the tung oil and paint thinner. I think I used way too much paint thinner and that was the problem. Yesterday I reapplied the tung oil and just a little paint thinner and it looks really good. I am happy with the look, but I will NOT do anything else to this table. It’s taken too much time and worry. If I get stains on it…too bad! It’s our everyday table in our kitchen. I do think they have a design flaw with the 72 in table which is what I purchased, when you sit on the ends of the table without the leaves (which I will only put in when we have lots of company, I don’t have room to keep them in) your knees hit the petistal. My husband is always complaining his knees hit the petistal and you can’t get up close to the table. You would think for the money it cost someone would have figured this out. There wasn’t one in that size in their store for me to try, but I’m not sure I would even think of that. Still I love the look of the table,
You won’t need to touch the table again. We have had both water & milk sit on it overnight & it wiped clean. You did it! You’re done! Now you can relax & enjoy it. I’m glad you’re happy with the finish. Have a great week, Linda!
Hi Julie,
Could I ask, with your 84″ unextended, whether any adult can realistically sit at the ends of your table because their knees hit the trestle? You cannot with the 60″ and 72″ wihout extending, as Linda noted in her post. Wondering if the breadboard pieces of the table are longer on the 84″ even without the extensions. Just called RH and they couldn’t tell me ???? I realize you’ve opened the floodgates with this post – sorry to join the chorus!
Yes, I often sit there because my girls don’t like to be at the head of the table. Enjoy!
Hello,
We purchased the same table and it was just delivered to our new home, if you had to start over from scratch (with the original powdery finish) would you use the Tung Oil again, the matte varnish or the Briwax they recommend using?
We are really torn because we don’t want to alter the color!
Thank you
I absolutely wood, but read prior comments.
Thank you for your answer, because we are starting from scratch should we remove the powdery finish before applying the Tung oil? Or should we leave it as is and apply the oil over it?
Yes, & I recommend that in previous comments & another reader shared how it worked for her. I *think* you can do it with or without the powdered finish. Test underneath & see what you like.
I applied the tung oil and it didn’t change the color much and I am happy with the look however I just wiped the table down (after about 36 hours to dry) with a damp cloth and brown stuff keeps coming up, I have rinsed out the cloth many times and keep getting brown like dirt off the table. I’m afraid people will get their clothes stained when they eat off the table. I did use more paint thinner than you did, the directions said 1 to 1, but I did maybe 2\3 100% tung oil to 1/3 paint thinner. Mine has no sheen at all, which I like. Did you have this experience when you did your table with the brown substance? Thanks again!
A little, but not much & it was only the first day or two. I’d love to see a photo! I would start using a cleaner (I’m obsessed with Mrs. Meyers) and a paper towel. I think it will dissipate in just one or two wipe downs.
It’s the campaign desk–it says it’s made of acacia wood but it doesn’t mention solid or veneer…
That’s probably the powder finish coming off? Interesting that so much is coming off. I wonder if that has to do with the paint thinner because the part of my table (underside) I used monocoat oil on (linseed oil) wipes clean with nothing coming off. I would love to see a pic too and hear any updates! 🙂
It’s definitely the amount of thinner, but should still wipe clean eventually.
Linda, do you mind emailing me? I have a couple questions for you! Thank you julieblanner{at}me{dot}com
Linda – how long did it take for your brown residue to stop coming off? We are having the same issue a week later. Did you end up using any cleaner?
Thank you! I ordered the tung oil and will give that a try next. I have a feeling I’m not going to like anything though. I don’t even like the look of it when it’s wet. It just changes the color so much for this particular finish. I have a desk from World market that is a similar color as the table is now, if World Market can get the look, I don’t understand why RH just can’t stain and poly so we don’t have to.
I wish there was a way to retain the finish completely unaltered, but unfortunately it will change slightly. You can see exactly what it looks like (up close) in my most recent posts. Is your World Market piece wood or veneer?
Thank you so much your quick reply. I did find 100% the tung oil and ready to start the process. One more question, did you put just one coat on the table?
Thanks!
I did – I felt like it was enough. Allow it to dry & see what you think before you apply a second. You can always apply more later, that’s the beauty of it!
I just recieved my RH table Tuesday, but didn’t read the reviews until it was on it’s way, I’ve been panicking over what to do. We have 7 grandchildren (5 are little boys!) and I don’t want a table I have to fuss over. I called 3 RH stores and everyone gave me a different answer as what to do. One said embrace the stains, that’s the beauty of the table, not sure I agree. Thanks so much for your information, I have read so many opinions on this table and yours has been the most helpful. I am going to seal ours with tung oil, but you did say it doesn’t change the color, correct? Thank you for all the information, I feel a little calmer now 🙂 I’m hosting Easter for 30 so now I have to get busy and seal my table! Just found your blog and I love it!
Only ever so slightly-if you use true 100% tung oil. Many are a solution combined with additives. I love our table 10x over & even after the headache, would do it again! Earlier this week we forgot a sippy cup on the table to find it had overflowed overnight. We simply wiped the table down with absolutely no damage! The water didn’t penetrate the wood at all, let alone leave a ring. Enjoy the memories you’ll make at your new table, Linda! Happy Easter!
Hi Julie,
Bless you for this post! I recently purchased the 1900s Boulangerie table in salvaged natural and oh that darn powder finish! It’s so pretty but I know it won’t last if it’s not protected. Most people online have used Monocoat Oil but I purchased a sample and used it on the underside of the table and it turns it much much darker and brings out amber tones that I don’t care for. I am considering scrubbing the powder off to see if that will help with the darkness, but I know it won’t help with the amber. I am also considering sanding the powder finish completely off and then staining it and sealing it. It seems as thought that is the process you chose? The color of your table looks great, very similar to the salvaged natural and not amber at all. I just wanted to verify and see if you sanded, restained with the whole table with the miniwax driftwood and then applied the tung oil?
If I were you, I’d wipe the powder finish off & do tung oil. Unfortunately, we started with the monocoat & despised how dark it was & lightly sanded the main area of the table {not the leaves}. I would avoid sanding at all costs because the beautiful grain can be lost. I’m sorry you’re experiencing the same issue! Best wishes.
Thanks so much for posting all this information on the RH table. I was about to purchase it but was hesitant because I have 3 young kids and was worried about the stains and maintenance. This post was incredibly helpful.
Thanks Michelle! If you protected as soon as it arrives you’ll be fine and never have to touch it again.
Hi there!
I’m madly in love with my BALUSTRADE SALVAGED WOOD SQUARE COFFEE TABLE from RH with the natural finish and am distraught about letting it go. Of course, we immediately spilled a few droplets of water and it left a stain that was much lighter than the natural finish. We then had to wipe the whole finish off to give it the same color. I was so glad to find your blog post and was hoping you could explain your directions a bit further.
You stated that “It’s not supposed to alter the color of the wood. However, the first coat must be used with a combination of paint thinner, which does. It released red tones in the wood we finished. A week later & I found it less noticeable.It has a matte finish. It can have a slightly more matte appearance with A LOT of steel wool & willpower.”
Do you think you could explain that further? I see that you mixed the paint thinner with the tung oil. How much of each did you use? Did you use a paint brush or did a cloth? What if I did not use the paint thinner? Also, how did you go about removing the tung oil? A steel wool from a hardware store?
We’re wondering whether we should just leave it as is or get it replaced with the same table and then put the tung oil on the finish already on the table.
I hope you can help and look forward to your reply!
I’m EXTREMELY happy with how the tung oil is holding up. I no longer notice red tones. I don’t know what would happen if you didn’t apply it with paint thinner, but we did, by brushing it on. We used cloths to wipe everything off & steel wool from the hardware store to remove the appearance. It’s now 95% matte & I could probably work harder to give it it’s original appearance if I had any energy left in me. Best wishes!
Hi Julie, I just bought the same table before reading your post. Thank you for posting your experience! I noticed a stain on the top before we sat down to eat our first dinner. I was annoyed. As we started to eat, a little spill happened and we wiped it, but you can imagine what happened next! Needless to say, RH is going to send a replacement. I am going to immediately protect the next one. Can you provide step by step instructions on how you used the Tung oil? Also, how much thinner vs oil did you use? I am not a do it yourself girl – so this makes me nervous and I don’t want to mess it up! thank you!!!
Not much thinner & the tung oil couldn’t be easier. Put it on & wipe it off immediately, ensuring you’re removing from cracks as well & allow to dry! It is really simple!
you make it sounds too easy! thanks and fingers crossed!
this is exactly the same situation we are in..going down all the comments as we speak, but so far finding all very helpful – thank you all for sharing your experiences! with all being said would you still recommend purchasing this table and/or finish or think better/less stress to go with another finish assuming any of the other RH finishes don’t have the same problem?
I’m still happy with it, personally. It’s not quite the dusty look that I initially loved, but everyone that comes over raves about how beautiful it is and it’s still more beautiful than anything else I’ve found.
Thank you for sharing your experience. I have been searching high and low for the perfect farmhouse/reclaimed style dining table for our home. My husband and I have opposing expectations and style choices, which leave me very limited. I was considering a RH Baluster dining table which I surprisingly found on sale today, however I am seriously reconsidering after reading about your experience.
Thank you!
When we visited the Outlet last weekend we noticed a coffee table with two glass rings on it that was returned for obvious reasons. I would do the table over again – IF I knew ahead of time that I would need to protect it & protected it before use.
Tung oil darkened the finish, so I removed it as much as possible, and then used a white wax on the table. It looks better, but I have to refinish it frequently.
I did make an improvement – the double end leaves made the table too large, so I re drilled the holes underneath the table and removed one of the double slabs on each leaf. Now I can add a single extension on each end, or just pull them out and add back the double leaves. Much more versatile in terms of length.
Unfortunately most tung oil available in hardware store isn’t 100% pure tung oil and will darken the finish. Your leaf adaptation sounds brilliant!
I am really interested in knowing how the table extensions were adjusted. I purchased this exact table in the dark brown finish and it is a little shorter than I would have liked but I live in condo with small elevator so..it is what it is..the extensions make it too long for everyday. So two questions, how can I adjust the extensions and one can I use Tung oil on the darker finish to protect from water stains?
You can definitely use Tung Oil on any of the finishes.
We purchased the table a few weeks ago and were initially very concerned about how we would protect the table. After a trip to a local wood working shop I got some great advise on protective finishes. I used a water based finish from General Finishes in a flat finish. I put 5 coats on top and 2/3 everywhere else. I then put two coats of wax on top. The first bush is perfect and it did not change the color of the wood at all. We are very happy with how it looks. Best of luck everyone!
If you can send photos, I’ll add them for others to see. Thanks!
Hi David — would love to know exactly what you used — as we just bought a 72in round — and need a solution.
Just wondering if you ever received any feedback regarding this protection option? After taking a couple of hours to read over all of your experience and the other suggestions offered, it seems to me the 100% tung oil and the Modern Masters Dead Flat Varnish seem to be the 2 best options. The General Finishes flat finish is a product I discovered last week so I had been curious if there was any response to your request for a follow up picture? We are probably going to order our table in the next 2-3 weeks and I am so thankful to have found this information to help overcome my only major concern. I LOVE the Trustle Table and can not wait to get it! Would you recommend ordering the 6 x 6 sample piece of wood prior to ordering the table? It sounds like the experience found here is as good as getting the sample AND…if I want to experiment with the options I am considering, I can always use the underside of the extensions??? Thanks for your help!
do you mind my asking if taking apart the extensions was a big undertaking? how did you remove one of the double slabs on each leaf? looking at how to do this too.
thank you!
How did you remove the Tung oil. I think I’ve ruined our table with the Monocoat. I read so handy good reviews and the pictures I saw looked great. It’s too dark, my wife is so upset. How do I restore this table back to what we bought?
Did you ever find a way to remove the monocoat??? I have been sick over what we did to our trestle table for 2 years….
Hi Cathy, I would love to adjust the double leaf extension. Please explain how you removed one of the double slabs. My 72 in is too short without the extensions and with them too long. Thought about purchasing the 84 in and using without the extensions.
Are the dining chairs from RH too? If so I’ve been thinking about buying them for a while… Any complaints?
Some of them are & others are antiques. I purchased the chairs at the outlet & they’re great! I’d love to add the cushions to make them slightly more comfortable, but it’s not practical for everyday dining with 3 kids!
Wow. I just found this post through dwelling gawker and can’t believe it! That is my exact dream table- it’s been pinned, mood-boarded, and drooled over for years, but of course at that pricetag it’s stayed soundly on the “someday” list. I’ve often wondered if I would regret a piece that looks like it will require a lot of care and fuss. We bought a Restoration sofa years ago and I feel the same way about it- you constantly have to fluff it for it to look nice, you can’t wash the fabric, and it’s been relegated to a sad unused corner of the house. I completely adore the store (which I affectionately call “Resto”) but I think you just helped me finally let my obsession with this table go. I will live vicariously and enjoy the pictures of it on your blog instead!! Thank you for posting this!
Thanks for the smile, Laura! I love our Restoration sofas, but they look sad when not fluffed. I’m still happy that our table isn’t veneer like so many others on the market, but the beautiful finish they sell is showroom-only material! Welcome to my blog…I hope you enjoy it! Happy Holidays!
I love my RH table but have come to a very real acceptance that I am choosing for it to be that raw, unfinished, unperfect look. I spilled a drop of water on the table and it has left a spot. I’m ok with it, I just have to be.
However, to prevent damage I did purchase a clear tablecloth from JoAnn fabrics (rather my Mom did for me). So for Thanksgiving I placed it on the table and covered it with a nice tablecloth and you never knew it was under there. It’s well worth getting especially if you’re having any friends or family over. We don’t have kids so on a day-to-day basis we just have either a runner or placemats decorating the table.
I agree, if you want a table that will remain perfect for years to come, an RH table is probably not the best bet.
Great idea! I worried with our family it would look like a picnic table in the end. Honestly, I could handle raw better than a powder finish & would have accepted it easier if it had been disclosed. I’m glad you love your table – it’s so beautiful!
I tried the clear furniture wax, and it dried WHITE in the nooks and crannies of RH table. I got frustrated and a little disgusted by the white chunks and applied butcher block oil (Boos brand). The table is a few shades darker after the oil, but I bought it for the shape more than the light, matte finish. Thankfully, I haven’t had much in the way of spills yet, but the table doesn’t feel as dry and “thirsty” as it did before.
That’s great information, Catherine! Yes, the nooks & crannies of the table are beautiful, but fill easily! We worked hard to try to keep the tung oil out of them so that they didn’t fill, but were not 100% successful. I love Boos butcher block oil – great idea!
Hi!
What about for outdoor tables? Can I still use a tung oil to seal it? What finish would you recommend for an outdoor dining table but still keep the dull rustic look ? And would not alter the color.
Thanks!
Absolutely! I used Tung oil on our table for our outdoor dining room!
CJ– what did you use to remove the wax? I’m regretting applying it since it leaves white marks whenever water gets on it.
We used a wax to remove the previous oil we put on it and were able to remove it with steel wool.
Julie, I have a black RH table. What’s the best way to clean this? Thank you.
Unfortunately I don’t have any experience woth that finish. Sorry!
Hello there,
I have a RH reclaimed wood table, in raw untreated wood. Right now I have it covered by a plastic, double sided tapped to the bottom. So it looks ok, I guess! ( I hope lol ). The table is safe, I just feel like I am not making the best use of this beautiful table! But I’m almost scared to touch the darn thing! Lol
I also have a 5 year old boy that is not allowed anywhere near the table… 🙁
Help!!!!!